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Ethan, see Rattlehead's post at the end of this thread. http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9593&highlight=coolant+heater

Yes, a freewheeling hub can easily be made of wood....

Installed the oil pressure regulator this morning. Couldn't wait, no wind so the 19°F didn't feel too bad. Took about 15 seconds to start the engine and 10 more for the oil pressure to begin to register. The gauge was installed in the oil sampling port and showed 70 psi max while the dash gauge...

I saved the pdf file for (near) future reference, many thanks! http://www.fuelinjection.net/zerostart/zerostart.html

Okay, revised images...

No Mike, no pictures of the rear of the original pipeline bed. The brackets were/are welded to the frame. Do you have pictures of your hole pattern(s)?

RE: Zero Start block heater info Thank you for the info!

Another midcourse correction....it's not obvious from the images, but the filtered oil enters the cooler at the bottom and exits at the top where the sampling valve would be installed. A channel inside the casting runs the oil back down and out to the bearings etc. Only about a 1/4 of the...

Since I spend a fair amount of time on the road, visibility is of high priority. This is a rear view, including LED STT lights. The reflector strips help too.

Did some preliminary pressure testing the other day and starting the engine at 30°F produced a pre-filter pressure of 95 psi!! It dropped to about 60 after 5 minutes with the engine rpm at 1,400 and later settled at a low of 25 psi, which seems to be a problem for me. The dash gauge indicated...

Mike, the results are only preliminary. It was 30°F yesterday morning and I'll have to check it several more times at different engine temps. Anyhow, a mechanical pressure gauge was installed in the "prefilter" port (shown above) for the initial run. I'll outline the procedure when I have more data.

Big part of the fun is the shopping (with money in your pocket). In the image posted above, what am I looking at here?

The heater or any other coolant loop (filter, fuel tank heater etc) should be fed from the engine side of the thermostat and return to the water pump.

Of course, you had to wait until dark. :wink: They stick out 3-5/8 inches, other dimensions below.

There are other check valves, of course. A flow rating (Cv) of about 7 would produce a drop of about 8 psi at 20 gpm, which should be acceptable. I was doing some preliminary pressure testing this morning and starting at 30°F produced a pre-filter pressure of 95 psi!! It dropped to about 60...

Possibly, but you have to replace the terminal also.

Forgot to include the customary pictures that usually go with my short statements. :-) This is what a burnt disc and contacts may look like. The symptoms were as you describe above. I ended up replacing the starter since I had one sitting around.

Here is a pretty good picture...

Sounds like the solenoid to me. A disc moves forward slamming against two contacts making the connection. A spring pulls it back. If the disc gets lopsided or burns, you'll have an intermittant connection. Solution: Replace/rebuild solenoid.

Possible check valve location. Available depth is about 1-1/2 inches.... With the filter base removed like this any decent machine shop should be able to install a check valve. Makes one wonder why it wasn't done from the beginning. Suitable check valves may be found here (material, flow rates...