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Over the weekend after draining all fluids and removing the driveshafts, I removed the radiator, core support, hoses, and all other attachments to the OEM drivetrain, then lifted the entire unit out of the engine bay with my forklift and engine-lifting gantry attachment. Began the process of...

Remember that the bracket must be on the shaft before the pulley is pressed on. Duh! After you reinstall the pulley onto the new pump, temporarily mount the pump back in its place, tighten the nuts, and then check for pulley alignment. The pump is driven off two belts, one of which is the...

Well folks, what started as a simple hood replacement project fifteen years ago and evolved into a full-blown rebuild, has now been restarted to complete the ordeal. As many of you know, in 2018 I made the decision to build & install a new drivetrain. Over the past eight years I have been...

Well, after eight years, I have finally started the process of replacing my OEM drivetrain with the new P400 / 765R4 / NP241. Got the front clip off in one day. Draining fluids now and will remove driveshafts & mufflers this afternoon.

I installed the rear disc brake kit first, but then later on I became aware that GM had issued Bulletin 88-320-5 in 1988 which provides instructions to remove the rear proportioning valve. I couldn't find my printed bulletin but you can read about it here - 88-320-5 Chevrolet Brake Control...

If you can afford the cash I will recommend replacing those rear drums with a disc brake kit. That was the first thing I did on my M1028 in 2010, and it eliminated all of my brake issues. I also removed the rear brake proportioning valve per the GM Bulletin. My truck now stops on a dime...

I mounted new 11.00/20 NDT on my machine-shop-built 20" Firestone split rims. 44" tall, but only 12" wide. My truck is lifted 5", 4" of which is achieved with after-market springs and then ORD's 1" Zero-Rates with the front axle moved forward 1". Also moved the rear axle rearward 1" so that...

Yeah I just checked and Summit has them. The -06AN is Earl's Part #EAR-AT991962ERL. Attaching an AN hose to the fitting will completely eliminate any possibility of a rubber hose and a hose clamp from working loose and sucking air when running and leaking fuel when not running. Well worth the...

The fitting is a 7/16" x 24 inverted flare. If you are going to be attaching a 04 or 06-AN hose, you will therefore need a 7/16"x24x-06AN fitting. That's what I did, in order to eliminate any possibility of leakage/air suction at this most inaccessible hose fitting. Back when I was setting up...

Please post a photo of the bent bracket so that other SS members who may have a similar condition can see how you solved the issue.

Looks like the kick-down switch is bolted in the wrong hole. Try moving it towards the firewall in the next bracket.

No, unfortunately I have not finished my truck. Even at 74 years old I've been swamped with career responsibilities and in March, my wife & I lost our only daughter to a sudden heart attack. Losing her threw a curveball in our life plans to say the least. But I have completed the new...

The 6,000 rpm is the revolving speed of the Spinner at 35 psi oil pressure, not engine rpm’s. I doubt my P400 will ever see more than 2500 engine rpm’s. Just wanted to clarify that.

There’s no need for an element. The centrifugal force of 6,000 rpms spinning the oil throws all contaminants, even blow-by carbon, against the inner wall of the rotating vessel inside the housing. The oil stays honey colored. Still should change the oil and traditional filter at regular...

That “thing on the top right” is a Spinner centrifugal oil filter. It is powered from a pressurized oil line. At 35 psi a rotating chamber on the inside of the housing spins at 6,000 rpm and contaminants in the oil are thrown outward against the outer wall of the chamber. The clean oil in the...

Finally got my Supercharged P400/765R4/241 drivetrain finished and ready to swap into my M1028. Now if I could just find the time………

The OEM oil cooler is housed in the passenger side of the OEM radiator, so in order to "replace" it you would have to replace the entire radiator. I believe what you may be thinking of is to add an auxiliary oil cooler to work in conjunction with the OEM cooler. There are many threads on SS...

I just now looked at the Ebay ad for that compressor 24v version of this with harness and saw that at 24V the compressor requires 2600W of power to provide 850W of cooling. I'm no electrical engineer so maybe somebody will chime in with how this can be provided by two 100-amp alternators...

The only things on the CUCV's that are 24V are the starter and the slave port in the grille. Everything else is 12V. You can pull 24V for your compressor off the 24V Buss located just behind the rear battery above where the VA plate attaches. Not sure how much draw the compressor will...

Rick you may already know that U-joints need to articulate in order to properly lubricate themselves. The more articulation the better to keep the internal needle bearings rolling. I keep telling you to forget the driveshaft angle and focus instead on bringing the DRIVETRAIN angle and AXLE...