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Now that is a good idea. I never gave that a thought for cleaning that channel. I'm going to have to replace my outer frame soon though because about half that channel is gone from rust.
Be sure to carefully check the speedometer adapter. It has a “O” ring seal that will go bad and seep fluid. Very common issue when these units get some age.
Well they say if you learn just one new thing than the day wasn't a waste. I have worked on everything from lawn mowers to Cat D9 bulldozers over the last 40+ years and have never run across one of those relief valve assemblies. Interesting.
Check out TM9-2320-361-24-1, Sec 0064, pg 0064 00-5 & 0064 00-6 for bleeding instructions. Like RAYZER indicated above if the intank pump is not working this will need fixed before you can follow the normal bleeding steps.
I would suspect 3 things. Worn anchor pins, slightly over size mounting hole on the brake shoe and my number one thought that the brake drums are past the max diameter spec. Add all three together and you will never get the adjustment correct. Just my 2cents
I have one of the 2000# China wonders and it is fine for a small block but I had my 7.3 powerstroke hanging on it to replace the piston cooling jets and the way it sagged with just that gave me a 10 on the pucker meter. I've seen a few of the revolver's show up on a fairly common auction web...
Yep, as Topo said it sounds like cable bind. I use 10 weight oil and disconnect both ends of the cable and put a catch container on the low end and pour the oil through the other until it's pouring out the low end. This almost always cures the bouncing needle problem with mechanical speedometers...