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TheBuggyman, If I run across more nuts I will let you know. THe 7 rims I have are complete except for a couple of valve stems. You really were looking at the PIC.

I got the winch and thought about mounting under be back of my M35. What covers the bearing where the PTO shaft is. Looks like there shoud be a cover of sometype. The roller bearing is exposed on the winch.

What did this winch come off of and what is it rated at 7412382-1 made by BMY SN#870101

RE: Re: Ever Seen a crew cab M35 on 16.00 20 How much did you strech the frame or did you cut down the bed?

Front would be good but a real thumb breaker without power or air assist. The very rear axel would be a better choice. When I had the Overson lockout on the rear axel I noticed quite a bit of tire spin from the front. Moved the lockout to the front and noticed the rear does not spin near as much.

What about an air dryer / separator like is used for paint guns and sand blasters? No more volume of air it should last a long time. Cheeper than a compressor.

I'm running 35# also. Have been thinking about adding a little more. Seams kind of bouncy down the road.

If you have a jig to compress the tire the stock rim is the way to go off road. I can see come crown on your tries RIZZO, not too bad but I think the centers of the tire would wear if on road. With the thickness of these tires it might not matter if the center was bald. If most of you driving...

Find a bearing supplier. Locally I use Purvis or Bearing Warehouse. They can match most any bearing. Cheaper than a parts place, including NAPA, in most cases. Try Saturn Surplus and then Memphis Equipment as a last resort.

Cost wise I am way ahead. At $200+ for custom rims, $1,200+. I might have $5 each for gas and rods and at max 1 hour labor after the first one. Add in tube and flap cost and is still les than $50.00 per wheel. At a warp speed on the road of 50 MPH I can’t see custom unless you really have...

I had to pull one of the rear hubs due to brake issues. The bearings are the same as the front ones I posted. One is narrower than the other. I guess I just did not remember or did not really pay attention. I did keep bearing and race together when I did the hub flip.

I like the 10" rims I made. If I were to do it again I would find riveted rims for the outside 3" so I would not have to cut the dish out, just cut the rivets and remove the dish. If I had access to a large lathe I would use the lathe to remove the welded dish and it would be ok, balance wise...

Bolt was in front center. I have it at the top now. I have tried snug to tight and it still came off however I had the clamp in the front and not on top.

The inside of the boot on the drivers side keeps coming loose. The boot looks good and I have cleaned both the boot and axel but it keeps coming loose. How tight should the clamp be? I did not want to over tighten it however I don’t want to keep having to put it back on.

I adjusted the bottom of the shoes and not the top. I think that is where the problem was. When I pulled the drum, one of the top adjusters was backed all the way off.

The numbers are the same but the width of the bearings are different. Look at the PIC above. Right ones or not. I was wondering if the Bower 392 might not be right.

Well I was thinking that the rear bearings were the same size. Maybe they are different. I was doing a hub flip to run singles at the time and kept everything together, inside / outside.

Well they are sometype hand held light with a magnet on the back, not sure what they are from. I also have some that are metal.

I tried to adjust the front brakes. When you turn the wheel it will spin and then one of the shoes will grab. Drove it and drum was getting very hot. I pulled the hub to check the brake shoes. Shoes look ok but the bearings are not the same. Are both front bearing the same? One of the...

No fording kit. Thinking about using an axel vent on the cap. The master has not been vented. That might have been cone of the problem.