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The vehicle's condition is a crapshoot when you are bidding on trucks at GL. They do not do ANYTHING to the trucks when they come in, so they don't have a clue as to the condition. Some are better than others about jump starting them to see if they run, but other than that, if they hit the...

If it's empty, I'd put a filter and new gasket on it since dumping the oil out is the worst part of the deal. (that said, I'd make sure to expect fluid in the pan when you remove it since Murphy likes playing pranks like that) I find it odd that the tranny was empty but the engine was full...

Ok, here's how the process works from start to finish... You register with GL and give them a CC number to bill anything you win to. You bid on the vehicle or property of your choice You win said item If your item is a Demil B/Q item you will have to fill out an End Use Certificate (EUC) to...

Yes, I've seen several of them that would squeal if the leads weren't connected. These were brand new out of the box. Later, Joe

I've heard them squeal before, it's usually because the batteries aren't charged enough for the circuitry to work properly. Charge the batteries with a regular charger first, then hook up the solargizer. Later, Joe

If I had to hazard a guess looking at the wiring diagram, connect the purple/white wire to the purple wire. The red wire is the original 24 volt feed and the black is the relay ground. Later, Joe

The relay is bolted to a silver bracket that is bolted to the bottom inside of the dash right next to the diagnostic connector (the big round plug). It is a silver box about an inch and a half long by a half inch wide with a four pin plug coming out of it beside two of the bosch style cube...

I'm pretty sure that is the diode that is in the 'Water in Fuel' light circuit. It's a little hard to tell, but are the wires on both sides purple with a white stripe? Later, Joe

If you have a buyer, I have a price in mind... LOL Later, Joe

That's a big part of the 'grass is greener' debate. The 250 is a SLUG up here, a turbo motor would make a huge difference in drivability. Later, Joe

Well, it's kind of a 'grass is greener' type of thing and I'm trying to get some objective feedback on it. I own the 816 already, have driven it on two trips over 50 miles one way and that's all I'd be willing to do with it in the future because it is slow and underpowered. While I don't have...

Anyone have any advice/input on the relative drawbacks/advantages between the two? If it helps, the 816 runs and drives and the 936 is a project... I'm having some difficulty deciding if I want to modernize or not. Later, Joe

This isn't a complaint or a 'need to do now' thing, but is there any way we can get the PM limit upped to 100 posts per box like the old site or is that something that is not possible in the new software? Apologies if this was in the works. Thanks, Joe

Can you ohm out the old sending unit to see if it is working? If it is, then you should be able to disconnect the wires, hook them to the old unit (with a ground jumper) and then move the arm manually to see if the gauge moves properly. If not, you may need to trace the wires from the tank to...

The front hubs shouldn't be too much of an issue. If you aren't high enough, get a couple of 2x4s the length of your fenders to drive over and that should give you enough clearance to get the hubs over the fenders. That's how I got a M211 between the fenders of my trailer. Later, Joe

We fought with the carbs on those things all the time. Our NCOIC finally had the carbs put on bench stock and when they acted up we just swapped them out and tossed the old one. My guess would be that the float is adjusted wrong and not allowing the carb to fill with fuel. That or there is...

Have you checked, cleaned, and properly gapped the spark plug? Is it making good clean spark? It sounds like a fuel issue, but I've also seen gunky plugs make them run like crap. If the plug is clean, I would lean towards carb problems as the major issue. Did you clean the entire carb or just...

Ugh... probably going to have to either move the fender forwards or the door backwards. Can you tell if there is a change in gap between the door and body or the fender and body? Later, Joe

I don't think so... You would not have anything because there would be no path to ground. I'm just going to wire in a standard 2 pin flat connector connected to the front battery and mount it to the brush guard. I'll have slave capability for the mil trucks and 12v for the civvie stuff. Later, Joe

Yes they are. It is not TOO hard to replace the entire dash harness, I just finished doing it on my 1009. Couple of things to be aware of: The underhood harnesses must be unplugged from the firewall first. Take the bolt out of the center of the big connector and pull it into the engine...