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That one is the 887 body with the Wisconsin powered Generator. Later, Joe

You would have to swap to the NP205 transfer case with the PTO output to run a M1031 Contact Maintenance truck body. If you find an M887 Contact Maintenance truck body, it has a self contained genset built into it and doesn't require the PTO drive from the truck. Later, Joe

You replaced the GPR? Just a question, which side did you put the smaller orange wire on? The wire is supposed to be on the glow plug side, not the resistor side of the relay (the TM wiring diagram is WRONG). If it is on the resistor side of the relay, the light will light up and then turn off...

Does anyone have a size for the nut that holds the starter to the support bracket? Later, Joe

Well, I need to take some measurements of the dimensions of the HMMWV hatch, but my plan was to take the top off of a HMMWV and weld up a DOM support structure that tied into the top mounting locations on both sides and the front of the fiberglass top, then modifying the HMMWV top turret to bolt...

1. Use the Wellmans if the system is 24V and the ACs if converted to 12

Here are some pics of the corners. The roof has hail damage, but if you're cutting and skinning, you should be able to work it out. How much of the corners do you want? (you can mark the pics where you want the cuts made and PM them back to me) So you are making a DOM framework inside the shell...

LO 9-2320-289-12 is the Lubrication Order TM 9-2320-289-10 is the Operator's Manual TM 9-2320-289-20 is the Unit Maintenance Manual TM 9-2320-289-20P is the Unit Parts Manual TM 9-2320-289-34 is the Intermediate Maintenance Manual TM 9-2320-289-34P is the Intermediate Parts Manual Download them...

The Transfer Case is the same as on any 4x4 1/2 ton Chevy with an aluminum Tcase from about 81 on (It's a NP208). If you didn't lock the hubs in (from your other post) then you drove it home on the rear shaft, not the front one. I'm going to hazard a guess that the chain was stretched in yours...

Yes, standard practice is to lock the hubs in before you get into trouble, drive around in 2wd until you need 4wd. Just remember to unlock the hubs before hitting the road home though. Later, Joe

I have a parts truck that I can cut up before it goes to scrap but I might be too far away. I want to do a turret too... I'm assuming you're going to hack the rear top to put one on... let's hear some brainstorming ideas on how you plan to execute it. Later, Joe

As far as I know, they are called CUCV IIs or CUCV IIIs depending on which generation they are. The USAF has been using them for at least 7 or 8 years, but they aren't being procured on a mass basis. Canada uses them a lot I believe. The AF ones I saw back in 03 had regular civvie vinyl...

I just took the gauge out, made two longer leads and touched them to the battery terminals. You could also jump the two terminals in the relay socket for the same effect. Later, Joe

Have you removed the gauge from the dash and hooked it directly to 24V? The gauge runs through a relay under the dash that may be bad and not sending power to the gauge. Later, Joe

If anyone has replaced their filter base and still has it, can you give/sell me the drain on the bottom? That part is missing from mine and a regular bolt won't stop the leak. Thanks, Joe

UPDATE: I finally got the wiring sorted out and for the first time in 6 months I got the engine started in the new body. After some troubleshooting, it even starts with the key... Left on the "To Do" list before the first drive: Fix oil leak from oil cooler connection at radiator Fix fuel leak...

Did you replace the relay under the dash or the solenoid on the starter itself? Have you tested the starter? Later, Joe

If you want to test the theory, unplug the Diagnostic harness under the hood and start it up. It's the long plug on the wiring harness that runs through the firewall on the left side of the engine compartment (facing the engine) between the heater box and the resistor block. Later, Joe

I'm pretty sure that is a transfer case chain, not a timing chain. The other parts are the T-case shift fork, shaft and gear. Not sure what the small pieces are. Later, Joe

Re: RE: VIN number Still no pics, but yes, the partial VIN (I believe it was the last 9 digits) is stamped into the top of the frame rail between the floor and frame about where the seats bolt in or a little forward of that. You will have to use a mirror and flashlight slid between the floor...