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Mine is a II MEF truck, 592080, any info on it?

Follow up on this. For removal - remove the plug, remove the snapring, use a brass punch to drive out the joint (shouldn't be super tight). For installation, tap the new balljoint in with brass hammer or similar. Grease is to be added to the boot side and the plug side. Shims are what prevents...

Agree with Ronmar. The location of the oil leak needs to be found and fixed at some point but I don't see a rust concern-at least from these pictures.

M1096 C7. Under high load conditions in low gear (trans not locked?) it will switch on fans well before the 205f coolant mark. Wish we had a trans temp gauge. (yes both engine and trans fans are activated at the same time).

I am. No idea if it makes a difference. Not like there is any air flow through it without the fan so only advantage would be a little help to cool down faster when the fan kicks in. That said, I have had the fans kick on well before 200f coolant temp, when pulling a hill in second...guessing...

Was 70f this weekend, 6x6 weighing 30400lbs, had the fan turn on twice in 2 hrs driving, and there are some steep hills here (minutes of WOT). C7 with eco hubs. Fan turned on about 20 times the day prior for the same trip at 50f, but had the cold weather shield on.

Not sure your exact setup, but my m1096 has the cooler mounted lower with some angle steel. Used some kydex (plastic) to allow for flex and prevent metal to metal contact.

One of these helped so much, although I think mine had a chinesium spring that busted on the 4th wheel. I'd really recommend a 3/4 impact as well. My 1/2" DeWalt broke an impact socket and struggled a bit.

Same style but I don't know if those are the same P/N. They offer many sizes.

You don't need 2 filters. I used Donaldson D120037 on my C7. They have decent literature and this size is recommended for our flow volume.

Yeah the good quality brushless units are pricey. When comparing similar specs, our stock units seem to be simarly priced compared to common civilian options.

I'd want to do a little more research, but so far my experience with solid state devices has been great. Use one to switch my 240vac mini split. This one looks good for the grid heater (at first glance) https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensata-crydom/HDC60D120/3440480

That sounds like more fun than my idea!

Cigarettes and Ozempic will fix that!

My pass though is 20"wide, 30"tall. I'm 6'4" 200 lbs and can crawl through comfortably. I size it so I could crawl on my hands knees and not hit my back. Do I wish it were larger? Sure but unless it significantly taller I wouldn't be able to crouch through it anyways. So basically, I don't...

I figured it was desiccant due to the need of being dried - I suppose it could be coalescing media. The one in the MTVR uses these aluminum pieces instead.

I found it kind of interesting that the MTVR uses this unit, but as an after cooler. Instead of desiccant media, it just has coalescing media. After passing through this it goes to the air dryer (Pure Air plus) unit with the spin on element.

Had another weekend trip about 2 hours away. Temps into the teens - high of 40 the second day. Truck worked great and didn't have to do anything to it so got to relax and enjoy the family time. Plan to recline the stock seats a bit as it can get a little old on the back after a while. The tire...

Of course! However if you just sent the 24v to the same wire, the backup beeper would also sound (I've read they are on the same wire but I also don't have the wiring diagrams to verify). You could just use a diode to prevent this.

This page goes into my methods a bit https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/from-fire-truck-to-mtv.216741/page-6