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Based on the information in the TMs, my ether cylinder should be firing, but it isn't. Temp is 20F, truck is cold soaked and it was 7F last night. Verified ether solenoid works fine. Verified working ether relay. Verified relay solenoid has electrical connection with ECM (can see a slight...

I gave them the serial of my trans and they pulled up the new bearing and I asked for the gasket and they quickly put that in the order as well.

New ether setup arrived today. Kbi were very helpful and the engineer said this is the replacement part number. Recommend a new blockor assembly (that 90 fitting/filter/orifice) on the bottom)

When you talk to Allison, they can order if off your description.

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I'd take that as a good sign you computer is working! Hopefully not just a wiring issue.

C12 uses what's called "unit injectors" and are cam driven. Do you know if those work the same way? C12s do have an electrical plug though

I mean, it's a diesel...smoke when cold is expected. I'd be careful listening to "someone" and going down a rabbit hole. My C7 smokes when cold and clears up eventually, typically starts around freezing and gets worse the colder it is.

It will obviously strengthen that area, however it may also cause stress risers due to the increased stiffness. Crossmembers are needed and there is a large variation between FMTV models. There will likely be more stress on bushings, but less stress on the frame.

Can you connect to it? Just beware, even if the abs ECU is dead, it will still looks like it connects (it won't error out and will have some strange values in certain fields in wabco software).

It is! Last time I worked with a big one, it was off the coast of Angola on a pipe lay barge. I designed, built, then on site supported a laser scanning system to inspect the interior weld of the pipes. Had to climb a ladder to this spot to do testing on the slip ring as we were...

Building myself the whole thing myself. There will need to be a gap with accordion seals, or similar. MTVR bed is rigidly mounted at the rear and spring captured at the front. The cab is also mounted with shocks in the rear so there will be a fair degree of movement between the two.

Just a mounting screw for the ecm.

Playing around with a few ideas. Both are 13' tall. Both connect to the cab and back window area - those two panels to be removed and create a large passthough to the habitat. This one uses sliding expandable sides like normal RVs use: 2045 ft^3 This one uses folding sides - similar to how...

That won't strengthen it. Those things are made out of mild steel. The only way you're going to strengthen it is if you heated up cherry hot and then quench - but it would have to have a reasonably high carbon content for that to work, which I doubt it does. I just rebent mine, no issues.

They bend easily while still in the truck. Put a dowel or something underneath the latch and just push it towards the clamping area and that will cause a bend in the middle and enable it to be tightened up. You can also just bend it with hand strength, they're pretty spindly.

Haven't gotten around to it, but I don't see any reason not to use a design similar, but use that sandwich plate as the main strength element. Make it 1/2" or greater, put gussets in the right locations. Get longer bolts. Done deal.

I never dealt with them till my FMTV last year, learned a lot since then. I haven't tried tried filling my supply line yet on the MTVR but it works great on the FMTV. Emergency gladhand is a standard setup. All of this requires no major leaks in your air system. I would have some cage bolts just...

Damn, sorry you had an idiot shove the wrong thing in the wrong hole. Nice work on the fix though! I would use a little rtv, very little. A little loose piece of rtv can cause all sorts of issues in a trans with all the moving control bits.

You should be able to put whatever fitting you want on the supply reservoir valve (remove valve, install a valve Something like this...