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Do you see any thin grooves around the shaft where a snap ring may have been? I wonder if the end caps come off ( 3 bolts )
Perhaps there is a snap ring that came off while you were prying on it, that used to be under the top cap?? Just a hunch.....
That's the one! Its very easy to test / verify.
When you start the machine, if you have the old style starter with the external linkage for the bexdix, when the engine first starts, watch the linkage while you continue to hold S1 in the crank position. You should see the starter gear disengage...
I believe Jim was talking about the centrifugal disconnect switch located under the little tin cover ( held on with a small wing nut ) to the right of the oil filter.
This is the mechanism that disconnects power from the starter motor whenever the motor is spinning more than ~600 RPM.
This is...
Yup! the last 3 or 4 I did ( a couple years ago ) all needed 15's and 16's
I ended up having to buy on ebay.... some people were asking as much as $200+ for a #16, but got lucky and found a couple cheap ones, but I suspect those days may have passed...
I just rebuilt a pump last week for another SS member who was having the same issues. Running poorly, then bogging down and died. Ended up also having a broken plunger guide. Plunger guide was $52 total after tax and shipping! $12 to ship something smaller than a quarter!
@rickf if you...
There is a ground strap connecting the control cube to the frame, mounted near the wiring connectors ( underneath the control cube )
I think there are also multiple grounds within the harness, also connecting to the terminal block.
Locate the wire on the +stud of the starter. there should be multiple wires on this stud, the battery +, another thick wire leading to the slave plug and a thinner wire that feeds 24+ to one of the terminal blocks inside the control panel.
Make sure it is properly connected to the starter+
Also...
Rather than trying to use a rod end I'd suggest looking at a correct machine, then replicating the original linkage which consists of a flat bar with a slot cut in it. This allows the solenoid to move further than the throttle lever needs because you will quickly burn out the solenoid if it is...
I've got a Lull 6K Highlander II that used to have the same issue. I tried everything, even made up a couple split aluminum blocks with grease fittings to sandwich around the cables ( after removing a small section of casing ) thinking maybe I could force grease inside the cable, but no luck. I...
The orientation of the head before inserting the metering sleeve does not matter. The sleeve just slides up and down on the plunger by way of the throttle assembly's pin. As long as the dot is facing up, nothing else matters.
On the gear line mark, all you need to do is put the plunger guide...
The plunger guide will set the orientation of the plunger. The guide only goes on in 1 orientation ( plunger has 3 flat sides and 1 curved side ) and the guide is marked which face goes up. Same with the metering sleeve. goes in with the dot facing up. By UP they mean towards the tip of the...
The delivery valve spacer is there,,,, barely! The blackish remnant of a paper thin plastic ring you see on the delivery valve holder is the spacer!
It is a very thin useless piece of $50 plastic that simply helps hold the delivery valve in place while assembling the IP. It is helpful when...
If you take the original IP and fill it with acetone or Berryman's B12 carb cleaner, let it sit several days, then try pressing in on the cap that rides on the cam to move the plunger. if the plunger frees up, turn the gear and see if the plunger is free to rotate as well. Also try the throttle...
On the voltage issue are you truly getting 140V or is that just what the gage says??
If it's just what the gage says but you are in fact getting 240ish at the lugs, the issue may be dirty contacts in the AM/VM switch.
You can spray contact cleaner into the switch through the small holes in the...
Cam lobe is correctly positioned at PC on #1 compression stroke.
As for the "missing items" you aren't missing them, I believe they are still inside the head.
The 3 parts are a large dia., thin copper ring, then a 3/16" thick steel disc, then a thin fiber sealing washer.
The copper rings and...
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you Rick, but wouldn't that be BDC on cyl #1? The intake valve closes somewhere around the bottom of the stroke, then rotating another ~90 degrees after the intake closes brings the piston up to the top of the compression stroke. Now it's at TDC.