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If you are using a trinary switch, the blue leads are for the fan and the black are for the compressor clutch. The switch I used didn't come with any instructions but these seems to be the standard.
I have Gen2 and it's operating fine, I guessing you have a wiring issue. Did you use a binary or trianary pressure switch and how did you wire up the compressor and fan?
Here is how the wiring should be connected
Gen 2 Evaporator
Single pin connector --> connect directly to ground if you want...
In theory the cam gear can be reinstalled by first heating the gear, I didn't want to risk damaging the gear by trying to pull it or with my luck only getting it half way on before it cooled too much to go on so i went ahead and pulled the cam.
Either way the rocker arms and push rods need...
I went through the same issue last year, the worst part of replacing the cover is the camshaft needs pulled to get the cover off unless you can find a way to pull the cam gear. In order to pull the cam the radiator also needed pulled to get enough clearance. Other than taking some time nothing...
I have attached the related pages from the parts manual, you need item number 7 and fan clutch part number 1090-08000-01, I purchased both off of ebay last year.
The Gen 2 is 28,000 btu/hr, not sure about the Gen 1. I have a Gen 2 in my truck, it is workng well however its not been hot enough for a good workout yet. It seems like the issue is the cab needs insulated from others comments.
I have used the brass Parker push lock fittings with no problem. They are great where space is tight for a wrench to tighten the line compression nut. And yes the line can be removed easily without tools. The other advantage is the brake line doesn't twist as you tighten the nut. The only...
Do you remember what issue of PS had the R134 charge amount? I currently have 36oz of R134 in mine but I know I need to add some more based on the AC manifold gauge pressures.
I didn't use the protecht module either. Regarding hoses I bought the fittings and the hose material as well as a...
Not sure on the part number. I gave up trying to find one and fabbed one myself. I started with an off the shelf AC idler brkt and pulley for a ford purchased from napa for about $20 (Hayden 5950). I made a new arm out of 1" x 1/2" bar and added a spacer to get the correct offset. I have...
The hoses should be long enough, the main issue would be fabbing a bracket so the valve could be flipped since the mounting holes are in the base. Shouldn't be too hard.
These air valves are prone to sticking, probably the fact that they are mounted upside down doesn't help. Any contaminates or oil get down into the solenoid and cause it to stick. I took mine apart and cleaned it and now it works fine. As mentioned remove the passengers side kick panel, the...
I would think at minimum you would eventually have antifreeze leaking up around the head bolt and getting into to the oil. With the sleeve cracked that badly i am expecting more severe cracking behind the sleeve. Probably need to replace the block.
I just checked the Air line diagram in the TM, it looks like the two way check valves under the drivers step is likely where the problem lies. The one behind the bumper is for the emergency gladhand. Here is a picture from the manual hope this helps.
No, this has been discussed in prior threads, I believe there is a check valve behind the bumper that is the cause. My truck was leaking at the red glad hand, in that case the shuttle valve under the step needed replaced.
It probably depends on how you want to wire the switch. In most cases the power goes through a relay so you are not switching much amperage. I used a standard ignition switch from ebay which cost less than $15 delivered on my LMTV. The ones the military sellers have generally have the military...
My bet is the solenoid is sticking open and always allowing air to the fan. Mine was acting up and I took it apart and cleaned it. The solenoid was sticking due to bits of rubber from the needle tip falling off and making the needle stick. I ordered a new replacement however so far the cleaned...
I have registered both a LMTV and a M923 in Central Ohio without issue. The M923 was purchased from GL and titled and registered using only the sale paperwork. The LMTV was already titled in WVA and was transfered with only the signed title. Both BMV and title offices i used knew what they were...
There should already be a bracket supporting the rear flange of the compressor. In my case the bracked was broken and after welding the crack i went ahead and reinforced it as shown in the below picture. Hope this helps.
I originally thought the wire would tap directly into the fording switch however after spending a few hours checking the truck wiring schematics that doesn't seem possible since the fording switch isn't switching the ground side of the circuit. I think it could still be done using a normally...