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Bikeracer917 or anyone else who has installed AC, did you ever figure how to hook up the black wire via the fording switch to disable the condenser fan operation? I am in the process of installing my Gen 2 unit and am working to get the electrical sorted out. It doesn't look as simple as...

I rebuilt mine a few months ago, my unit didn't have significant rust on the castings. If they did i would have used a wire wheel to clean them up. I reused the orings without issue, i replaced the gaskets since i had purchased them already. The unit now works properly. Regarding the copper...

Yep had the same issue, compressor brkt was loose/cracked and the front housing was cracked although not as bad as yours pictured. I installed a used front housing and cover and had to repair the compressor support bracket by welding. I will definitely routinely check the bracket fasteners to...

The rears are available new from Spicer Dana, I purchased 2 a few months back from Find It Parts. If you google the NSN you should be able to find the Spicer part number. If you have trouble let me know I might still have the box in the garage with the part number on it.

Standard valve cores will fit in the existing valve stems, however you will have trouble with finding any valve stem caps that will fit due to the unique end shape. If you want to change valve stems the MRAP one will fit however they are large bore you can use them as is or install small bore...

I am not sure of the exact material, probably cast aluminum. I picked up a good used one locally for $200. Considering how much work there is in removing the part and my confidence in a welded repair on an part of unknown cast material I opted for this route. Also my crack could not be fully...

Try raising the cab using the manual pump if it works that way you likely have to replace the seal on the air/hydraulic unit. There have been mulitple threads on here for this issue. Usually if you see oil vapor from the unit while operating the seal needs replaced.

A quick seatch found this on summit racing the part is made by ARP ARP Individual Studs AQ3.475-1LB Hope this helps.

I had the same problem on my 5 ton, I couldn't get the lock nut loose and there wasn't enough room to get a pipe wrench on the lock nut. I have removed 2 by using a large pipe wrench to loosen the housing by putting the wrench on the pipe section of the housing near the lock nut.

My truck had both the broken line and the cracked timing housing you pictured. If the bracket that supports the compressor becomes loose the housing becomes stressed and will crack. My guess is the line also cracked due to the compressor moving. At least this was the case for me. If you need the...

What are your plans for mounting the winch? I would like to add one but haven't decided where.

The pressure should be set at 70 psi, from what I could tell when mine was apart was the pressure could be adjusted. Turning the screw in should increases the pressure that the valve closes.

The fan and clutch pictured are the old style, the same as I had on my truck. I cannot explain why you can't pull the pictured plate off unless the bolt that has the head cut off is causing binding. Try prying with a bigger prybar. None of the parts can be reused if upgrading to the new style...

OK, unless something is different in regards to your fan and clutch. The plate you are referring to should come off easily once the 6 allen head bolts are removed. Basically there is the front most plate you are having trouble with next is the fan which has a rubber grommet in the middle and...

Are you refering to the plate that is between the clutch and fan? If so its possible that someone put RTV sealer on the plate to hold it to the face of the clutch when they were assembling it. Mine came off easily however there was red RTV applied and my only guess was for this reason. if you...

The clutch shouldn't have play when there is no air applied and its locked. Also you shouldn't be able to spin the fan in this condition.

Mine was leaking at the same place, i took it apart and used some black rtv to seal the diaphragm to the valve body. I contacted haldex, the exact replacement is not commercially available, haldex recommended a 70psi pressure protection valve. If you go that route you will need some adapters...

The allen head screws you see will remove the fan, there are 6 more which can be reached through the front face of the clutch that holds the clutch on. I replacd my fan and clutch a few weeks ago to the newer design for peace of mind, the new parts design is much improved. The fan hub is steel...

When i replaced mine i disconnected the fuel return line at the fitting above the governor and primed until fuel came out, reconnected the hose and started it back up.

I replaced mine. I removed the cooler lines and cooler since I was also replacing the front housing. You may get by with just removing the lines, if there is enough clearance to drop the pan at the rear to pull it out