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You already changed the sender, just pull it back out and with a few brass fittings and a TEE you can have both the light and gauge hooked up from the same port. Also what oil did you use? I've never used Sea Foam but that could've thinned out the oil some. If it is a little low on oil pressure...

I might have missed it but did you check BOTH tail light grounds at the body? Each light has a black wire going to the truck body, the need to be clean and tight, the truck bed needs to have a clean ground also, it should be grounded thru all the bolts to the frame but who knows?

More than one person has done it, myself, no. I would if I came across a CUCV that was hacked (I have most if not all parts) but if the 12V was working I'd probably would leave it. Yeah, lots of help here huh? I'd look it over real good, a tell-tale sign of a hack job would be any unsealed crimp...

If you are still stuck on the road side, run a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the FRONT battery (12volts) over to the pink wire on the injection pump. Then after making sure the truck is in park (double check) and or maybe the transfer case in in neutral, use a screwdriver or other...

I've driven a CUCV with a 4spd on the street and just like an auto if you are on the throttle making a corner than tires will squeal or something will break, simple solution is to ease thru the corners.

I'd be spending some time with the "family friend" and find out exactly what he did and carefully ask him why he did it. The stock system is a good system, a bit odd but it has lasted all this time. Personally I'd go back to the 24v starter as it uses only half the amps of a 12v system. I've...

That angle and any published data would only be for stock trucks in new condition, no saggy worn springs or lift kits and big tires, so each truck will be different.

Sorry, wish I could answer that question.

Check on flebay for used 6.5 oil pump drive, save $$$

Yep, the cooler the air the better, not only does it help cool the engine but cool/cold air is denser, meaning it has more O2 per cubic whatever.

With all those above mentioned 'improvements', I think you should gain a tire burning -head snapping couple of horse power. The 6.2 was never designed to be a powerhouse and no matter what you do it never will, or it never will for very long! By all means a new dampener and a cool air intake...

Soak it down with penetrating oil and grab it tightly with vise grips and apply pressure using a pulling-twisting motion , KEEP IT IN A STRAIGHT LINE, DO NOT GO SIDE TO SIDE AS IT WILL BRAKE OFF! Work it out a bit and then push it back in just a bit and apply more oil and repeat. Some people...

Does this happen all the time, or just when engine is cold? Cold meaning first start up of the day. What happens if you start it in the AM and just let it sit and run? I'm thinking lift pump or sorry to say the IP.

Yup, time for a new pump. This has been covered many times in CUCVRUS threads, I'd look them up and get a good look at the pump you want and the one that looks like it but doesn't work well. Also, you are going to change the oil right?

It's got to be either coolant or fuel, personally I'd be hoping for the fuel. BTW, the pump is the only place it could be coming from.

Check the alternator output, they have three 'legs' and if one diode burns out you lose 33% of charging and that would cause the light to come on when a load is put on it.

Been there done that many times, not doing it again! I've retired.

Your using a hose to find the leak, start at the bottom and work your way up, You can use duct tape to rule out things like the windshield and door seals ectra.

I've had a small roll around floor jack in my trucks for years and it's been very handy many times over, for me and others I've stopped to help. I also have a small piece of plywood so it doesn't sink in . I I was running a lifted truck I'd toss in a couple of 2"x4" blocks too.

I do something similar, I use old tie down straps from big trucks and trailers, you can find them for free alongside any highway!