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I found a Ft. Drum map in one of mine and an original brass lock with key for the steering wheel chain, another one I picked up in Ga. had a large steel ball (about 2") from some ball bearing. other than that nothing but dirt.

For a more 'professional' job instead of using regular cardboard try a piece of plastic 'cardboard', it's weather resistant! In extreme weather I've covered the whole grill and never overheated.

Simple and easy? Have you checked the pink wire on the IP for power? With the ignition on you should hear a click when you unplug and plug in back in, if not you have a bad solenoid or no power. That's the first step.

Thanks guys, I'll give them a try, I already have to lift the engine for one side so why not do both.

I'd double check that bypass hose first, and then it might just be a coincidence that the water pump seal went. Did you by chance overtighten a belt and put unusual stress on an old and unflexible water pump seal?

Never used any of them, don't they transfer more engine vibration than rubber?

RIP Gage. You will be missed.

This may or may not apply, I had a civilian truck with a 6.2 (so did my dad) and both trucks had problems with belts. Gates lasted the longest at about 2 years maybe a bit less. After some research with a friendly NAPA clerk we discovered that there was a "preferred " belt, and all the others...

depends on what you have, I have disc brakes in the rear and the kit is available or you can fab up your own easy peasy, but that's for full floating rear ends.

A couple of pics would help.

Serp belt?? It should have V belts. Oh well, make sure you check the diff's gear oil, often overlooked. Wouldn't hurt to check the glow plugs and keep an eye on the IP, the throttle shaft seals seem to have a tendency to dry out when in storage and then start leaking. YMMV

Put a "want to buy" ad on Craigslist, you'd be surprised at whats still sitting around out there!

Engine went in today and found out that I could not use the left 6.5 exhaust manifold as the clutch slave cylinder is in the way. So the 6.2 mani went back on, that leads to the problem of the cross over pipe not fitting, if it's one thing it's another. I'm thinking of trimming the right hand...

I think you have your answer but just don't believe it. The signs do NOT point to a head gasket. I've seen healthy engines with bubbles in the rad= no problems. Coolant expands when it gets hot, a full system will push coolant into the over flow tank and out of the tank if over full. How do you...

I'm assembling everything on the engine stand mostly to see how it all goes together. Where do most people tap into the oil system for the turbo supply? From what I can see online with a 6.5 it looks like it comes from the front of the block on the right hand side? I'm looking at running a line...

Well, I dropped the IP and injectors off to have them gone thru and looking at the truck I realized I'm going to need a different exhaust system! Pity, the dual set on it now is like new ;( . Any suggestions? I haven't measured it yet but the down pipe looks to be about 3" ,if so should I run 3"...

About a year ago I did see online someone was making and selling the TV cable bracket for the 6.2, sorry don't remember who.

I believe the difference is just the rubber, same clam shell. But either can work.

Back in the old days (kinda like this thread LOL) we would use any old condenser from when we changed the points and attach it to the alternator to kill the whine, IIRC sometimes to the radio itself. All the condenser does is 'leak' a little bit of power to ground and thus kills the whine, how I...

I'd leave the stock system alone and go right off the battery. FUSED OF COURSE!