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I am concerned because it worked one day and gone the next. Almost everything in this world does this.... it works until one day it don't! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Kurt's VR will get you going again and not have the known reliability issues associated with the OEM VR.

You're jumping to the conclusion that the float assembly is bad before testing it to verify. It's a simple switch mechanism, I'd suggest you use a multimeter and check continuity on the 2 wires for the lower float. The issue could be with the float control module rather than the float itself...

Out of curiosity, what have you done to test the existing dual float assy? The problem could be as simple as a stuck float or a bad component on the float control module.

Indeed, several people have had this same problem. The results of the AC voltage regulator test will tell us where your issue lies. You can also search this forum and read other people's stories with similar issues, including most recently...

You want to see sketchy! Imagine 2 power plant units ( 4 generators ) mounted on 2 M10A3 trailers, landing gear dangling off the ends of a 21' tag along, 9 hours, PA through NY to RI! You wouldn't believe the looks I got! Your setup looks perfectly Legit!

The switch should send DC voltage directly to the generator exciter , power goes to the exciter through Resistors R5 and R6 then to pins 16 and 17 on the terminal board. So I would check for power at TB 16 and 17 first, then work backwards if no power there. What position do you have the...

Looking at the TM, page 41 shows a manual field flashing switch "S", connecting battery voltage to the field flash wires. Is that switch present on your machine and have you tried testing it? My presumption is that if you have power going to that switch and activating it does not give you...

Are you working on these machines remotely or at home? If doing it at home and you have 240V single phase available, have you considered a phase converter instead of a generator?

I'd toss that thing aside in a heartbeat and get an 002, if you want 3 phase, simplicity and affordable and an 1800rpm diesel.

If you still need this info I have one of those trailers at home and can check tonight. Also need to check if they are RH or LH threads on it, I don't recall.

I'd say most likely No, you won't find a typical generator repair or small engine shop that will go anywhere near any military generator with a 10' hot stick ( or any other Pole ) Most likely even if you could find someone to work on it, paying them to fix it will not be worth while. You'd be...

When you replaced the gages did you use the exact same style gages? As an FYI, when switching from the old style gages with the blue housing ( and red cap in the empty bulb hole ) to the newer Faria Beede gages with the white body and twist in back light bulb installed, the wires on the gage go...

What a surprise it would be if some porch pirate opens himself ( or herself ) up a brand new radiator bottle for "Christmas" Bet he was hoping for a new set of Earbuds or perhaps some other electronics.... not a plastic bottle! If it happens to get stolen, you may get it back with a sympathy...

Kurt should be here to assist you shortly! He's your best resource for all things "VR" related. If your VR turns out to be the issue, I 2nd the recommendation to use his updated replacement.

For starters, are you sure the fuse holder has the correct fuse in it? 3A, but are you using a slow blow fuse or a fast acting one? How long will it run before blowing the fuse, a few minutes or does it pop almost instantly? Also, reading your post, it sounds like even while holding the switch...

Don't worry about the "battery" the Ammeter only shows you the amount of charge or discharge amps while running. With the machine off it will always read right between the red and green. With it running it should go up to the right into the green after starting and slowly settle back very close...

I personally don't see anything all that disturbing just yet. I think a lot of it is simply the air pulses from the 2 cylinders being in-line with each other. The only way to tell for sure is to test crankcase pressure ( supposed to be a slight vacuum ) with a monometer and not rely on what...

I've had several 803's with low hours that were caked up with carbon to the point that none of the 4 cylinders had compression due to the valves being held off their seats by carbon buildup.