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I think my rebuild was successful, but thanks anyway. One does stick a tiny bit but it works. The biggest problem was that when it was abused, the bolts that hold the stabilizers on sheered off at the nut end, and the retaining pins bent like pretzels. The pins would not come out until I...

If it is just the roll pin, then it is a 'piece of cake.' Mine was more complicated with a part in the lower assembly (hence the need to unscrew the leg from the body) which was 'off'. I can't remember exactly why mine failed, but since repairing, it has been working just fine. My (M-200)...

Common? Not sure, but mine was broken. There is a breakdown, and some info on it in the manual (trailer). You will need a *big* pipe wrench (say 30 inches) to take it apart if you need to get at the guts beyond the top. Once disassembled you will probably find a missing clip for the crank...

If soft/rubbery (RTV) picking is the only way. If it is black, relatively hard, then heat is the only way (and that stuff is nasty/messy.) I'm going to guess it is softer, so picking it is best. As mentioned, you only have to get at that big cap first, and you need to be able to read the...

If you are doing this in NH, you are welcome to give me a call. I might (depends on where you are, of course) be able to help you out when you need an extra hand (or a tool that you don't have and I do!)

Just so one doesn't get one's hopes up too high, though capacitors fail frequently, it is entirely possible that the problem with the unit/regulator is not that capacitor, but is something else such as a pass transistor.

Function? Hard to say... Source: perhaps Radio Shack, or any of a bunch of online suppliers. Find the rated value, and I could find you a source for it.

Couple of questions: 1. Does the motor 'load' down when trying to run a higher loads, or does the voltage just droop to a very low value? 2. Is there any control panel on the set, and/or a voltage adjust control?

I'm confused, you say it puts out 120 volts, as it is designed for, what is the problem with it? Or am I misreading your initial post? :?

Well, that could be a problem! A series regulator would be better, best would be a switching regulator. Anyone think that an 'aftermarket' regulator would be worth investing in?

Only that the voltage is too low! 8) See the reply to another thread, if I can understand how the regulator works, I could probably make up some 'aftermarket' ones. (My company makes diesel truck electronic parts, so this could be right up our line, so to speak...)

Here's a question for the MEP-002/3 experts? It appears to me that the battery charging regulator is a 'post' regulator that takes a (higher) AC voltage and rectifies and regulates it, right? Would there be a market for an aftermarket designed regulator if that's the fact? Creating a 27.5-28...

Uh, don't idle a generator set, it will blow the regulator!

No a 50 Hz meter will read 'faster' on a 60 Hz source of power. By about 17 % actually. Hour meters are cheap, best bet is to just buy one.

For laughs... This is true, I promise. In NH if you have a power generation facility you are required to sell your excess power to the 'grid'! (Of course this is meaningless for us, testing diesel generators.) In addition to various surplus and other electric heaters, you can also use an...

That 575 volt requirement is a problem since the MEP-005A maximum voltage is 416 volts. You may need to rig a transformer.

Difference between a MEP-004 and a MEP-005 engine is two cylinders more (4-cylinder vs. 6-cylinder.) Same engine basically. Virtually all engines the cylinder closest to the nose (fan) is #1. (Be careful of Ford V-8's where #1 is on the opposite side from everyone else's #1, but that doesn't...

When I go out to the shop tomorrow I'll check mine. It is a CarQuest number, do you have CarQuest near you? I might have dimensions too, I'm not sure.

There are a couple of different belt configurations. The alternator varied between different configurations, and with that the belt(s) also were changed. Is the belt a standard 1/2" wide one, or a narrower one? If narrower, I've a belt or two that might fit I could give you. If wider (more or...

I would suspect that the safety circuit is disabling the main contactor, which is why it does not engage when the switch is pressed up. I doubt the switch is bad (could be but I don't think so.) Do the Battle Short test as Sewerzuk says, that will help diagnose perhaps.