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Well check engine flashing is a good sign, it is probably a sensor, or perhaps a data bus issue with its comms path to the transmission. The ECU battery is buried in the ECU and not easily replaceable. I know someone who was experimenting with batt replacement but do not know how that turned...

Yea, wrong list… no fuel solenoid on an A1. Its EFI. I guess the first question i would ask is do you get a check engine light at initial power up, or at all? My second would be what year is it? cranking indicates the transmission is powered up and in neutral to deliver a neutral start...

Yea they did it different on the later trucks. From some other pics I have seen i think it is the same type remote control valve as I removed in my A0 video. i think they put it back there for simplicity as primary and secondary tank air are already combined back there with a 2way check...

Hope the transfer case isn’t damaged…

Skip the impact and the other tools… cutoff wheel on a grinder(face shield) and a hammer. If you cut thru the barrel right where it meets the hex head as soon as you pass thru the center rod/shank, they will pop off. If you want to avoid the “Pop” when they release their stored tension, stop...

Just remember, these trucks go to excess for a reason…

Yea, especially not knowing how long it has been like that… As mentioned clutch disc adhesive is water soluble. How different it would behave with a 50% glycol mix is anyones guess. if fluid is coming out of the pressure cap, if that cap is OK(and even if it is not), it is A. Growing fluid...

All off of the SF-97 for my M1079, just stood there with my mouth shut and the DOL clerk pulled all the appropriate info from their computer system with what was on the sheet…

WA. titled mine as Class 6, 19.5-26K, Gross on the registration is 26K…

And your driveshafts and engine will thank you…

yea there are other ways to do this...

Once their operation is understood, the 3 lever is pretty robust and typically does not act wonky:)

Having this discussion on FB and i doubt there is any real physical difference between the RS-15 and RF-19 except possibly/probably the spring package they are paired with. Maybe they have different axles fitted, but i suspect the housing castings are the same. I think Acella is re-springing...

What truck is this on? If it has cab air suspension it should have 4 air lines to the hydraulic valve, 2 for AOP hydraulic control and 2 for cab suspension. if it does not have cab suspension, the line that runs toward the rear is connected to a remote control supply valve. That valve samples...

some of the failures may also be related to the high RPM they must endure at highway speed with the 7.8:1 axle ratio... The only other people who run these engines approaching that high an RPM are the marine users and they don't have air compressors fitted... You can still see the marks from...

its a slow process until one day you wake up and there you are...:)

Its also dead easy to control CTIS manually if you don’t want to pop for a new controller. I am at that stage in my life where I don’t feel the need to have yet another controller doing something for me:) 3 switches and a pressure gauge And control is at my fingertips whenever I choose to use...

Check and make sure the switch assembly is properly grounded. They can act wonky when they are not grounded. You can also pull the switch and jumper the appropriate pins in the harness connector to enable brake, turn and headlights to test those circuits...

Yep, service drive and enter should enable the stop, turn-signals and headlights...

There is another place down in Louisiana, CCCABLES (custom Control Cables) that may also be able to gin something up based on your current cable specs(centr cable diameter, outer sheath dia, bulkhead dimensions, overall length and cable travel... Lotsa things still run with control cables...