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The 6.2 is a 6.2, nothing different for a '1 ton', small difference for civvie vans like injectors and I know the injector lines were different in 1982 than 83 and up, but timing chains should all be the same

Every one needs a test light! Well ok, most folks should have one in their 'kit' and know how to use to find a 'hot' wire and to find a ground. Next purchase after the test light is a multi meter used to measure the power you find and the resistance.

Replace the pins and bushings, do NOT replace the whole hinges unless you know what your doing! Lots of room to never get get them adjusted right again. On the top hinge there is a PIA bolt that goes from the inside out, not sure if you have to remove the parking brake assy. or not, I just...

The top can be fixed but in the one pic it looks like the front seal has been boogered up and leaked. Now might be the time for new seals and a new top, yes the civvie top will bolt right on. Make sure you all the seals and watch out for the 'hidden' bolts! IIRC there is one bolt on each side in...

Some GM civvie trucks had a remote steering reservoir like that but not that bracket, I would leave that for one of the last things to do. Before trying to start it determine if it's still 24volts or been converted to 12 and make sure the batteries are FULLY charged. You can easily hot wire the...

Now that would NEVER have occurred to me!

I'm not trying to be a wise guy but the best thing you can do is avoid having to jump start it at all. Load test your batteries and clean all connections and keep them tight. Keep the alt. belts tight too. And don't forget the connection on the starter itself. A little time and work this time...

Good catch, I was thinking along the same lines. After all the pressure is the same then the stopping force should be the same IF all parts are equal. I thought he had installed the primary shoe in the rear position not both primaries on one side!

I know nothing about the after market wheel mentioned above, might work great for soccer mom and a grocery getter but for a real truck that that hauls fire wood or goes off road, nope, not for me! A good friend and I went wheeling years ago and he had a set of the old (new at that time) wagon...

Fuses may be good, but are they making contact? Also that fuel solenoid has to go thru the ignition switch, (before or after fuse IDK) . I'd start with the pink wire itself and check for voltage at that corroded spot first. Good luck, electrical gremlins can be a PIA!

Shocks do not carry any weight unless they are air shocks or have a spring mounted to them. All a shock does is absorb energy and thus stop the axle rebound. In other words it cuts out the 'sea-saw' effect when you hit a bump. Replace the springs AND shocks.

Your right, I have a DOD purchased K5 Blazer and it's far from a CUCV. First is it's red, second is the red velour interior and PW PL and power gate, lets not forget the 350 gas and the TH700R4. Nice truck but it's not green!

Bead blast and paint, probably your only choice.

I hope it didn't take till now to find that! :) It sucks when people ask and then never get back with the results. Thank you for coming back. I wonder who and why that filter was put there.

When you remove the springs and before sand blasting find a spring shop and take them in and see if they can make a set for you, it will be a much better ride and might be priced better then you think. As far as inspection, I'd never say a word about changing the springs and a little spray paint...

I see it say's for a 6.9, what is that? Not that I really care, but if they can't get the ad right I consider them suspect!

"One other problem is: I don’t know how or where to attach the Insulator Rod on the drivers side. I don’t know where it goes or how exactly to attach it. *Pics below" That rod is for the latch release and snaps into a retainer like CUCVUS showed on the backside of the inner handle, the clip is...

In your top pic on the left hand side is 2 rubber lines that screw into 2 aluminum lines, those are the engine oil cooler lines and they go across the radiator to the passenger side. If you decide to replace them be careful as the steel to aluminum causes corrosion and it's not hard to rip the...

I can't comment on the welds but why not make it adjustable AND instead of keeping it in the bed where it's in the way and rattling around make some brackets and bolt in the 'dead' space UNDER the bed? Yeah it would suck having to crawl under in the mud to get it but it would always be with you...

I doubt that! I've had many dealings with U-haul and have decided I will NEVER go back to them for anything! I've used Curt (or is it Kurt?) hitches and installed them myself, easy and cost effective. As a bonus the powder coating seems to hold up quite well on them too.