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Or a very long screwdriver, works great. BTW I think the squeal is belt adjustment, just my .02

First thing I'd do is check that ground on the tank. Instead of unbolting the bed just unbolt the four bolts holding the tank mounting brackets in place, have a floor jack under it and then lower it to where you can get in there and work. I've been known to cheat a little and replaced all the...

Yeah KISS= Keep It Simple Silly

No relay unless the PO put it in, first thing I'd look at is make sure it's really the T/L and not the brake light switch out of adjustment or the pedal just hanging to low.

You could tap into the top of the metal filler neck and braze or weld a fitting in there, after removing it of course! That way the fuel just runs down into the tank from the highest point, the pump should stop any siphon effect and if you use a momentary type of push button switch you don't...

NICE! Now go back to sleep , grouch.

A doner truck could be a source of the wiring harness for the switch and gauge. From the pic you seem to have just the end.

On one of my first trucks, I replace the starter with one that a lifetime warranty and that was the worst ever! Every year I had to get in replaced, after a while I extended the wires to it so replacing was much easier. I believe that was on a civvie 2wd with a 6.2 and there was no leaf spring...

LMC has just about everything, they aren't the cheapest but then again you do get what you pay for.

Well I was going to say go to the local junkyard and find a doner truck, but the I saw your in ICELAND! So much for that idea. I think your going to have to do a lot of research online for the wiring and fuel routing. sorry I'm no help.

It's just a little sleepy, check the belt tension on that alt.

Sorry no info on the starter itself, but try jacking the truck up from the frame and letting the axle hang, then set the starter on the spring and connect/disconnect the wires and then put in place. This gives you a bit of a break from holding that heavy thing up there. While your at it remove...

All the above and the motors have a very small electrical contact area, it will need to be cleaned too. No sure who makes it but I've used a spray silicon lube that dries and leaves the rubber and felt dry yet slippery, think I bought it at wally world. It's made for camper windows. Clean and...

I had forgotten about this thread! Yeah time for a new rad, gonna be about $400 or so. The last 2 I bought have been the plastic/aluminum ones and haven't had a problem with either. I'd ditch that external cooler as I don't believe the oil needs it, I would save it and maybe use it for a tranny...

A bad Ign switch shouldn't have any effect on the headlights.

Yes and yes, same kit because all the Alt. are 12v. Well in most CUCV's the ambulance is different.

No, I had the cover off to change the fluid, I didn't even notice it till my son said "WOW look at that", I bought the truck from a guy in NJ that got them from Gov. auction and turned around and sold them. No idea how it got there or who put it there. But like the time I slid down a hill...

I like this answer better!

Now would be a good time to start cleaning all those connections, seeing as everything blacked out at the same time, I'd pay special attention to the main battery cables.

I had a 1008 that had a limited slip of some kind in the front and the Detroit locker in the rear, made for a great plow truck! Not sure if they all had the same set up, someone will come along soon and let us know.