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I don't know how they could 'load' test a starter without some kind of geared flywheel, and nobody I know of has anything like that .

It's quite but the leg room sucks!

I've never done a leak down test so keep that in mind. TDC=Top Dead Center, what that means is that piston is all the way at the top of its stroke. Assuming that you have the engine turned TDC on the COMPPRESSION STROKE then both valves are closed. But as soon as you put compressed air into the...

I would start with a good visual check of the wiring starting at the tail lights and work my way forward, somewhere you have a dead short. Come to think about it, I'd start at the switch and fuse panel and work my way back.

Barrman beat me to it, check the rear U-joints. Also check BOTH hubs are in the free position, just because the left one is doesn't meant e right is too. I've never had a lock out hub 'freeze' up but wouldn't hurt spinning that front drive shaft like he said. Take a look at your tires too, could...

Just came back to this thread, this is to late to help you but will hopefully help the next guy. When replaceing the floor pans don't drill the welds out, instead locate and mark all the welds from the inside and then use a grinder to remove just the one layer of sheet metal (thats the floor...

Or just take it to Auto Zone and let them test it.

I missed the low on fuel part! Dump in a few gallons and bleed the system. Also starting fluid ( or anything else like it) and glow plugs DO NOT MIX!!! The starting fluid will ignite as soon as it hits the hot glow plugs and considering it's being drawn into the cylinder with the air the intake...

Well, it needs 3 things to run, fuel air and heat, you know you had all three because it was running so what interrupted what? I don't see the engine suddenly getting so cold the fuel wouldn't light off so the heat portion is out. Air flow, I also doubt that the air flow got interrupted and...

Thanks for the update and I'm really glad you didn't try to save that frame. In years past and money tight I might've tried even knowing it should be replaced.

I'd like to add, keep the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking, you're try to get all the air out and replaced with fuel and flooring it will speed things up.

LOL! My son needed one and I told him that you probably had one or two kicking around he just grumbled on about price and distance, I was even willing come down and pick it up just to meet up and look around your place, bet I could've found something needed too.

I know it doesn't sound 'right' but oil or brake fluid does cause brakes to lock up NOT slip, I've had that argument several times. If both wheels seem to be locking the same then I would try disconnecting the ride valve and try it set at different heights, IIRC you want it tied up to simulate...

Not on a Chevy truck but I have on a car, nice to work with and very well made, but if I were you I'd be looking in a junkyard and pull a civvie harness out. Find one with out power windows and such and grab the cab harness too.

Nice, but I think I'd still need step stool to get in.

Yup, clean all that crap out of there, it goes down behind the fender and the drain hole is there and plugged.

I used a couple of one piece rubber like mats from LMC, not sure if it's the same as what you are talking about. I used them in pick ups and they fit very well, a little funky at the front of the tranny hump. I did have to cut a hole for a transmission shifter, I don't remember about the...

Call or email them and ask, best way to go!

It seems odd and is uncomfortable changing it from the top but if you do it from the bottom you will NEVER do that again! What a PIA!

And a bit of grease on the wiper linkage helps too.