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See that? It was that damn exhaust leak all this time!

I'm not sure how many amp the GP draw but my guess is more than 30. Try unplugging all GP and see what happens, if the fuse still blows then you know you have a dead short. I'm no electrical expert but I believe you would need some kind of slow-blow fuse (if even made for 12v) or a fusible link.

WOW, I like that diamond tuck, you do that yourself or buy pre-sown?

Find a doner truck in a junk yard or on craigslist and take what you need.

Also look under the driver side floor mat if you have them, a leaky master cylinder will sometimes leak inside the cab.

YUP< one thing at a time!

I sold one cheap about a year ago, let it go for $5,000 but the bed supports were starting to go and the cab corners and rockers popping it also had about 100,000 miles on it but ran great. I have a civvie Blazer that I turned down $12500. for it. Price can be hard to set , hope you get what...

I'm thinking restriction in the fuel supply, I'd start with a new filter and think hard about that fuel sock in the tank. But before dropping the tank I'd run a line from the pick up side of the lift pump to a container of clean fresh fuel and see what happens, if it runs good and stays running...

Do you have a welder? If so , yes.

I kept the 4;56 gears and added a 700R4 within the first year and never looked back! I did have the tranny gone thru and added a corvette servo and a 0.5" TV (?) valve along with the hydraulic lock up on the converter and tires in the 31-32" range can 'comfortably' run 70MPH If you can stand the...

No, it hides the problem until the problem (lets say loose tie rod ends) are so bad that it not only becomes a safety issue but also causes your shimmy shock and other parts to wear out. Do it once and do it right.

Please don't get me started on the behind the counter morons! I knew they didn't know much and that was confirmed when one told me I could only go up one spark plug heat range at a time because the engine had to get used to it! yeah right.

Yes, that little button(?) is the release for the arm, there is a tool available for it but doubt you will find it anywhere other than a tool truck possibly not even there. Not to worry, place a plastic body filler spreader (or something similar) on the panel and use a flat tip screw driver to...

Did you ever change the lift pump?

Save the reinforcements from the underside of the old panels and install them on the newer ones, you will have to drill a few holes for the battery trays.

Don't over think this! If you are opening the bleeders and the calipers don't release, then it's got to be the calipers. There is no spring inside the calipers, the only thing that draws the piston back is the lack of pressure hyd. pushing it out (vacuum?)

Make sure you order the one for a 1984 NOT the model year your truck is! You want one of the top two pictured, the third pic is of a flywheel but yet they are calling it a flexplate , possible wrong image as they are quite a bit more $$

LOL, Why have a truck then?

Nike's and other china junk.

Sounds stupid, but are you sure the calipers are sticking? I haven't had a rotor turned in years and never measured runout but could that be the problem? Remember the piston only moves back a few thousands when pressure is released, if the rotor is rough or has essive runout then it's possible...