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To me the fact that the lift pump DROPS pressure means it's failing. I'd start with a lift pump and plan on an IP too.

That doesn't always work. :(

That left side looks ahh somewhere between rough and gone! Up here in NY I could see that price for a good shell or a plow truck in that shape.

In my limited experience it seems that nobody has ever even seen that bearing let alone replaced it! Almost every truck I've ever torn down (1st time) that bearing was either dry as a bone or seized up or both.

OH YEAH, I forgot about the power steering pump, if the civvie does have A/C then the engine may have a remote PS reservoir mounted up near the intake manifold. Ifso save and use that! Much easier to fill then the one mounted down on the pump. If you don't use it, it makes a nice hydraulic...

If you look at the harness where it goes to the fire wall, you'll see it breaks down into 3 sections, one for the taillights, one for the front light and the third for the engine. Just leave them all in place, the only 24v on the truck is the starter/relay and slave receptacle and the voltmeter...

Answer for both is yes, order #2 and #25 from Hillbilly but before hooking them up get a spray can of auto transmission cooler flush and flush the oil cooler in the Rad and Hillbilly's lines. The last thing you want on a new engine is finding old contaminates in the cooler! All the alternator...

If you look closely you can see the bolts on the back of the mounting bar have nuts counter sunk in the plastic portion of the mount. I'd say yes, you can change it out but why? I'd just use the old bar itself in the new mount, it's not correct but if it works then who are we to judge? The PO...

What ? You want some?

To answer the PSI question, approximately 7lbs so neoprene hose and clamp would do BUT steel is better!

Older vehicles always require more Maintenace and repair and if can't or won't do the only other alternative is pay someone else to do it (as you well know). Think about all the cash you could save by learning even just basic stuff like trouble shooting the charging system and rebuilding the...

Thanks for the update, many come on and ask questions and we never know if or what fixed the problem.

LOL, so true but just try to find it when you need it! If you're like me, you'll give up looking and order another one and eventually find it when you need something else!

OK, next thing I'd be looking at is the fuel lines, in the OP you said you changed the tank. Perhaps you pinched a line between the tank and frame?

Maybe it is a vacuum, have you tried loosening the filler cap and see if it will continue to run?

Try posting a pic or two, I'm trying to figure out what switch you're talking about.

Yes, check your power steering drive belt, I bet it's loose or worn down or both.

In a nut shell, Some folks call it 'porting and polishing'. You'd think that the intake and exhaust passages in the head would match up closely to the manifolds , right? Well next time you have an engine apart place a intake manifold gasket on the manifold and look at how it doesn't match the...

I don't see how the drive shafts could have effected the rear main, someone would've had to work REAL hard to do that! It's kinda like blaming your oil leak on the guy that recovered your seat cushion.

I'd use paint stripper, apply to one panel and then cover with plastic. While thats sitting place scrap sheets of cardboard under it to catch drips and spray/brush a second panel and cover then go back to the first and scrap the gunk off using a plastic body filler spreader. Keep one panel...