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Now's a real good time to change those hinge bushings!

Keep it, it's a factory part and so much better than aftermarket!

Those bent valve look streamlined, sell them on ebay as a custom 'go fast' part.

I used to have a turn buckle that fit between the two pullys and extend outward and tighten the belt, notice I said "used to have "? Don't loan out tools and expect them back!

I know this is not applicable to the OP's case now but I'm going to tell the story anyway. Many years ago when I was young and broke I needed a car and couldn't afford much, I found a 73 Duster with a 225 six in it for $75! That was right up my ally, problem was it not only smoke badly but blew...

Excuse me, but isn't this the pot calling the kettle black? I read the posts, the OP asked for thought/opinions and he got them. BTW I agree a low mileage tranny sitting on a shelf for 30 years would be suspect. I learned that the hard way but YMMV.

This sounds overly simple maybe to the point of being stupid, but while your checking lines and weights and such make sure you check the fluid level. Yours wouldn't be the first trans to slip going up a hill when low on ATF.

I also 'glue' them on but I also just snug them up and wait a few hours or a day and then give the bolts another 1/4 turn to tighten.

Thanks for getting back with the 'fix', it sucks when people leave you hanging and you never know if they got it fixed.

In the past I've fought with sticky drums on cars and trucks, in a couple cases I used a grinder and ground the the heads off the brake shoe hold down nails and then removed (still not easy) everything at once. If you don't know the 'nails' are what holds the shoe to the backing plate and can be...

Go for it! CUCVUS is right up the road if you miss!

Not being a wise ass but it's obvious that something was hooked up wrong, Are you sure about the connections? A look in the TM's should give the correct connections. Just a guess but did you hook Pos.to Pos.? as in a 12 volt system ?

Yes , a new pump is expensive but worth it. Get a NEWLY rebuilt pump or have yours rebuilt, do not get an older NOS (new old stock) pump as those seals are just as old as the seals in your pump. Could a rubber fuel line be getting soft from the heat of driving and the collapsing thus starving...

OK< maybe I'm wrong, after all that's why I wrote IIRC that stands for "If I Remember Correctly. It's been almost 20 years since I worked in a body shop and I know I haven't changed a HL switch in at least that long. I thought to remove the switch it was a push-twist-pull and then gently pull...

I've had the same problem in years past and had good luck putting a bushing in the hole and welding the worn out part of the hole up. The bushing is trashed but keeps the weld in 'place' so no drilling is required (if done right) usually a small round rat tail file to make a second bushing fit...

I'd be checking for voltage at the motor before I got into the steering column, speaking of that it really isn't that bad to do. Look on u tube and you'll find some vids IIRC it can be done with the steering wheel in place, just whatever you do DO NOT pull the old wires out with tieing a string...

And if anybody wants one of those C code manifolds I just happen to have one or two of them, I can even make a deal that's hard to turn down FREE! Why I've saved them all these tears I have no idea!

Don't forget the upper rad hose, heater hoses and a thermostat! Do the all now or one at a time over the next few years. Also when removing the heater hoses from the heater core do NOT just twist them to break them loose! Doing so can cause leaks in the heater core. Instead of twisting them use...

Tying the shaft up is what I've always done. The front shaft stays in and the hubs get UNLOCKED. IIRC if you flat tow farther then 50 or so a bearing in the T-case starts to lose lubrication and burns up. In normal driving it receives oil from being driven by the input shaft. I hope I said that...