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And, sometimes it is fun to learn by letting out the smoke! :beer: (there's an old saying: "If it wasn't broken before, it sure is now!" :mrgreen:If you have a line on a new head, that's great, probably won't be that difficult to swap it out.

As far as the shorted windings go... If the coils are internally shorted, then it won't matter what you disconnect--it still will cause problems. The reason for this is that a single shorted turn attempts to draw all available current (it behaves like a coil with a short on it!) Of course the...

1. Yes, it is the newest NEC code. I do know of a few who have been 'bitten' by it however! 2. FWIW, that box is also (physically) large. Were I to need a whole house switch-over setup I'd absolutely use it.

An automatic changeover (transfer) is not required, and a manual switch can be used. If an automatic changeover is used, the generator must be sized to handle the full load, and I suspect your generator is not that large. This requirement has been described in depth on the Internet, a search...

I doubt it is just an inter-winding short, IIRC, the OP did a test with the head disconnected and the problem continued... So I suspect that won't help. I like Speddmon's comment about looking for heat damage too, but I'll go a bit further and suggest that a disassembly is the best way to go. It...

AFAIK, (Don't have that gen head to see) you'd have to disassemble it to get at the splices. Generally they are 'wrapped' with the windings themselves. So basically complete disassembly, and go from there. Face it, if it is bad, you can't do any more damage to it taking it apart, and you may be...

Classic failures like this (and this applies to motors, too) are old insulation failing, physical damage, and sometimes (though rare) damage from things such as lightning. Overloading (and attendant overheating) will hasten failures (by causing the wire's insulation to deteriorate more...

Any chance the leads out of the head are marked (would be 1-12 for the output leads)? The numbers are standardized (somewhat) and that may give you the 'clue' you need. The images you posted seemed to indicate that the manual writer was confused as to wire numbers and pin numbers, giving wire...

Can you post images of the parts you require? I've some parts, for example, but don't have a lot of part number info... (there is only a very remote chance that my junk would fit, but someone else may have what you need...) Also what year was that thing made? That may help narrow down the...

I think you are looking for a change over board, more than a switch. Switches to do this, at the power you indicate you have, are expensive... A board, such as on a MEP-004 will allow you to change power options. I do have one such board, that I stripped out of an old 'pre-MEP' generator set...

I think were this mine, I'd disconnect the field wires (12 wire, right?) and try again. If it still does it, then the generator head is clearly at fault, and if not then something down stream is likely the problem... As well, when disconnected it will be easy to do continuity and shorts.

If this is the wire I think it is, it will get a bit stiff in cold weather (it is a type of PVC insulatiion). I use something like this (much smaller) for my generator and it is stiff when cold (but not impossible). The specs are excellent. You can, for short periods of time, exceed the...

One would get slightly better performance (faster cold starts, etc.) with a synthetic 15W-40 but that will cost more per-fill. My MEP-004 uses eight quarts, and I use regular stuff in mine (Rotella). Which is fine, since that's what I run in my Hummers as well...

No, the block will have about 12 volts, or half the battery voltage. Power to these heaters goes like this. The power in wire (on the right hand one in the above image) which flows through the first heater. Then it flows through the threaded part on the base to the second heater's base. If...

I think you missed the fact that the block they screw into is not grounded, but is isolated (electrically) from ground. Power goes into the first heater, through the block to the second heater, and from the second heater to a ground wire to the bolt (which is insulated from the block) which...

Personally I'd consider 15W-40 Rotella for virtually any diesel engine. I doubt that 10W-30 would be a problem either...

BTW, if for some reason Carl can't host something like this, I'd be glad to do so. Only issue is that for Joe, I'm further away (about 30-45 minutes or so further west). I do have a large shop and tools, which everyone should have! [thumbzup]

Why don't we arrange a NH get together at Carl's place (which seems central to all us (southern) NH people... Joe, could you get your set over there in your truck?

Ah, but what if something happened to his muffler? :? To answer the OP's question, a muffler is unlikely to hurt anything, but as Rick says it may not help either.

Ike, I've seen them shut down Roosta (Stanadyne) pumps almost instantly, or at least it seems to be an instant shutdown--it is very fast. We had a case where a HMMWV had a pinched return line and whenever the vehicle would get into a certain situation where it needed torque but the passenger's...