Search results

Check with hillbilly wizard (member on here)

Nice job! It's good to see it done that way instead of just hacking it out and leaving a bare edge.

First off when the Gov. ordered these they specified that no matter what production year it was made in it would use 1984 parts. I doubt this is the case but GM made a change in flywheels between 84 and 85 for 6.2L, perhaps they did the same with flex plates? What type of "machining" did you...

Ah, you could do it. All you need is a socket set a screw and screw driver and a drill. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERYS BEFORE WORKING ON THE DASH!

If you do use them you won't be sneaking up on anybody, they'll hear you coming a mile away! I'm all ready half deaf, I couldn't stand that tire howl.

I understand changing the front clip (I like the old round head lights) but why the doors? Externally the doors are the same body lines and fit, if you change them you'll need different inner trim panels and believe it or not the old glass is thicker then the newer (80s) window glass. They will...

I've never run those exact tires but have had many like it over the years. They do ride rougher and will devolpe flat spot in cold weather from sitting (they go away as the tire warms up) They worked great for plowing snow and driving in woods and fields where small stumps can rip open a soft...

I like it, easy on and off, lightweight weather tight, what's not to like?

Just a normal Chevy mount, I did have a friend change things a bit as the donor truck sat a lot lower than my CUCV and that change the vertical angle of the plow.

Starters don't last very long when they don't disengage and you can't hear them over the 6.2

Good idea, also what oil viscosity is in it? I tried running a pure synthetic and a very small ream main leak turned into a smoke screen at 55+ (I lost a significant amount of oil). I went back home and swapped out that oil with regular 15-40 and went right back to a drip here and a drop there...

Oh yeah get the FULL rockers not the slip-on also plane on the rocker reinforcement or inside rocker.

Most all aftermarket rust panels are about the same, check with a local body shop and see where they get AM panels I bet you'll get them cheaper and faster.

Next time you have one with a boogered up Torx just lay a half inch nut on top of the bolt head and Mig weld the inside of the nut to the bolt then while still hot use a 3/4" socket and unscrew. easy peasy!

Unfortunately your right, I've had good luck with swollen plugs by spraying them with Castle Thrust (penetrating oil) and let it sit and soften any soot then grasping the hex wit a pair of Vise Grips and CAREFULLY turning the plug back and forth in a twisting motion while pulling DO NOT PUSH THE...

Yes, and another helpful hint. Don't get into a place where you have to back up! If you do try to keep it straight and even still you'll probably have to get out and turn the steering wheel on the towed to keep things lined up.

When using those wheels what lug nuts are you using? My understanding is that to use the centers and plastic nut covers you need the metric nuts.

Any small block Chevy block off plate will do just drill and tap it before you install it.

I saw a metal one similar to that in NJ, the rea panel was removable and had a small man door in the center. That truck also had a fuel fired heater mounted near the front of the bed.

I think your best bet would be to contact your nearest Fleet Pride or other shop that specializes in truck PTO's and driveline equipment.