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If you do end up using lift blocks in the rear, at least make sure they're not tapered, to "restore drive line angles". If they are, either mill them flat, or get lowering blocks instead. Lowering blocks are generally not tapered, so your U-joints will remain at equal angles.

Thanks, that's what I suspected.

If you're going on a trip, I'd touch as little as possible. It runs, right? And if it's not too far, 4th gear should get you there. What I would do is double check all the fluids and lube things.

Here's one for you guys with more CUCV experience. Checked the vitals under the M1031 today in preparation of finally driving it some day, and noticed these brackets. I don't recall seeing such brackets before, unless my '91 V3500 had them, and I forgot. Also found ATF in the transfer case, and...

If you mean the 39x16.5-20 Pitbull Rockers, there's no comparison to the original Michelins. In the limited snow testing I did (wet, but hub deep) they did as well or better than the Michelins with chains. Simple ladder chains, but still. Haven't done much driving in regular dirt yet, but...

Well, I don't know if my use qualifies it as a true off-road truck as I do take it on the occasional 1 1/2-mile drive drive on pavement. Normally it's used to dig ditches, move dirt and rocks, lift things, plow snow (technically blow snow, as I replace the loader bucket with a snow blower in the...

Hmm. My preference would be to have the front and rear lockers separately activated, and independent of 4WD (which I'd like to make lever operated). Partially because I'm used to running 2WD low range in my Jeep, with a Detroit in the rear. Another reason is that it can be beneficial to have...

Good use of a simple Class 8 valve! I should copy that idea, but will definitely separate the 4WD and locker functions. Not only is it hard on the components to run locked, but I like the extra traction to be available as an option. In other words, I run 2WD until that doesn't work, then 4WD...

Let's hope that doesn't happen again. But if it does, it's quicker to put the tranny in a high gear and stall the engine than to remove the doghouse for access.

Good to hear that things are working out. And be careful with over inflated, over sized tires in three feet of water - your little 404 might start floating away. Oh, whenever I start using a new tire pressure gauge I check it against a known one. The digital ones are usually better than the...

For cleansing purposes, I wouldn't mind having a few 5-gallon cans of bio diesel. Wouldn't mind changing filters a few times, either, if that's what it takes to clean out the injectors. At least I hope it's dirty injectors that makes it sound like valve clatter and smoke like crazy.

That could be a blessing in disguise. At least for people who don't plan for gelling. I don't think even the 15% mix is available around here. Yeah, low sulfur diesel, no lead in the gas, hardly any octane in the gas...modern vehicles need electronics just to keep running well. No wonder the...

Surely somebody in Europe can re-arch leaf springs, if the problem is that they're tired.

Well, 53 psi in a 10R20 is different from 53 psi in a 12.5R20. Also, chances are that the manual's recommendations are for a fully laden vehicle, not for running empty, or near empty. Under inflated tires put up a lot of resistance, so it doesn't surprise me that it affects 404s, too. And...

A 1 or 2-1/2-inch lift can provide better comfort by allowing more uptravel in the front, if the spring rates are close to stock. What would I do? Leave it alone. Been there, done that, so all stock springs these days. With the fenders trimmed as needed to accommodate up to 36-inch tires on...

Aside from what I have to put in there to prevent gelling, Howes, Power Service, and Lucas. Can't say that one helps more than the other, or does anything at all, but at least adding them makes me feel like I tried. In reality, there's probably a mix of all three in some tanks as I usually don't...

Exactly. And I suspect that I ran with too little pressure (the twig was a press fit in the hole, so I couldn't really feel the contacts) and got contaminated contact surfaces in the process.

Based on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing. It could certainly be a coincidence, but my switch is not reliable, and that could have something to do with using a twig at first, then...

Make sure to use an oil can with a 1-piece bowl. I put my 50/50 mix in one with a crimped bottom, and it leaks out. I don't think that 50 front and 45 rear is the correct pressure for your 404. Not with 12.5R20s, anyway. Try 30 front and 25 rear, it's probably much closer to what they should be...