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I'm suspect it's a rectifier for the AC output of the alternator, and a voltage regulator cobbled together into a little package. It's something you can build yourself - but by the time you design it, buy parts, built it, test it, weatherproof it, and mount it on the genset you have to ask if...

TM5-6115-585-12 has information on testing this module. The -34 TM doesn't have anything more useful. Can't remember if I've seen a detailed schematic of this regulator module before (the AC regulator schematic is in the TMs - but I can't seem to find the DC unit). I'll take another look and...

Sounds like your DC regulator is kaput.

Once a year, the APM opens its storage areas (entire floors) for members of the museum to wander about and take in all the machines that are owned yet not on active display. This is a wonderful time to look at what they have for treasures. They also host a Model Engineering show yearly - this...

Glad to hear you got a chance to visit the American Precision Museum in Windsor. I'm a member of that museum, but only get to stop by once a year or so (I'm 60 miles East of there). It's a great place to visit if you're into old machine tools and manufacturing in the US in days of old. Also...

I don't think you'll have luck just soaking - steaming is the way to do this. Build a steamer - pipe, caps, high temperature hose and a kettle on a burner is how I've seen them cobbled together for home made chair building. Search woodworking sites for plans. As for the over-bend, you'll...

Fall in Southern New Hampshire. Note deuce in photo - making post on-topic for military vehicle site ;-)

I bought my 2A042 carb from Saturn - along with plugs, air and oil filters, and a number of other small items. Don't forget to get a plug wrench for the shielded plugs if you're planning on a tune-up.

Have you taken the carb apart? Try it without the rebuild kit - just be careful to not tear any paper gaskets. They are really brittle when old. The carb on my MEP-017A - powered by a 2A042 - was full of rust and other crud in the bowl, and the needle and seat were really dirty. I pulled it...

This is why I avoided collector insurance - and went with liability only. Keeps the rates low, yet allows unlimited use. If something happens, however, you're out one cargo truck and will have to fix or replace it yourself. If you paid for full coverage it wouldn't take but a few years of...

#623 bulbs are 28V @ 370 mA ==~10W each. Still it's only an added 20W to the tail circuit. I have no idea how large the contacts are inside the switch, or what they are rated at in terms of current - but I really wouldn't worry about it that much.

Yes - since the rear markers that you wire the front lights to are on when in park mode.

If you were to cut wire 491 where it goes into the Cannon connector for the headlight switch, and splice wire 491 to wire 21, it would do what you're aksing for. You''ll be adding the load of a couple bulb filiments to the taillight circuit on the headlight switch, but I suspect it would be OK...

Break lights function, and running tail lights along with the head lights in Service Drive. Switching to "park" makes tail lights and front markers stay on - but the headlights go off. I don't think there's any way to make the front markers stay on with the headlights enabled.

I've been thinking about these parts - and I suspect I could machine them, or at least something close enough - that would work as intended. It would require building some fixturing to do so on manual machines, which are all I've got. That said, I really don't think it's economical in terms of...

Wow - that is somewhat of an odd-duck. As already pointed out, not as easy as one might think to make. I'm not saying it can't be done - but it's not trivial, at least with manual machines. Some jigging and a 4-axis CNC mill - along with a couple hours programming - and you could make some...

I'd need to see a drawing to be certain, but it doesn't sound like it's a difficult part to make. A home shop machinist would likely be happy to make the parts for you - provided you procure the material, and buy either tools, tooling, or beer to make his time worthwhile. Hard rubber is nasty to...

That's the standard letter they mail out once the EUC either has cleared, or is ready to clear. I got one with my first EUC; they don't seem to send them more than once when you file additional EUCs.

Seems high; I've paid $2 a loaded mile door-to-door with a ramp equiped trailer for an M35A2 - and I though that was pretty spendy. Edit: and that was last week, too - so it's a current price.

Here's my latest M35A2; ID: NK0ETY032513082 Currently has winch - suspect it was added, so NSN could either end in 1616 or 1617 No bumper numbers can be detected. Thanks!