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I think it's always a good idea to pull and inspect the fuel pump. If the screen are clogged, bottom are about to fall off, or the hose is rotting you could windup breaking down.
When I serviced mine, I added a little oil to the incoming air line. Then took off the exhaust line, disconnect the vent from the master cylinder and took a air gun blew out the vent line. Held my thumb over the tee where the mc vent connects. This way no crud gets in to the brake fuild.
Cycled...
Ok, I wanted to start a new thread with photo's to help out with a common issue.
Fuel Guage Does Not Work.
Yes, I know you can use a multimeter but I think this way is easy.
First there are two grounds, one on the frame near the tank and the other behind the gauge. If your gauge does not work...
I had my insurance card and paid in full invoice. I had mine shipped to but it was in Kentucy.
After that I had to have a police officer verify the vin and then I got my tag.
Front hub and rear hub to compare. I probably had 500 miles on front. Rear is 1000 plus.
I know I have read at least two other threads where members had the same issue. Glad you made it safely and did not have a accident.
Got the air lines run, removed the windows and painted them.
The masking tape I used left a glue film on the front window because I left it on for a week. Oh well live and learn.
What a nice day in GA!!!! Weather is perfect out side.
Ok, going to try and finish some loose ends.
Get the masking tape off the windshield, reinstall a airwiper motor, replace the air lines to the wipers, lock the door seal down, make a gasket for the fuel pump, and paint the fuel pump.
If I have time going to try and prep the bed for paint.
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