Search results

I've got the M1061. If you do a search, lot of threads about them. Finally got ramps for it. Have the towers, and cover, it's a very useful trailer. Added wood sides to haul firewood. Got it from maddawg, thanks! And as others have said, it's heavy for a deuce, especially when loaded. But...

Mine wasn't loud when it went. It was idling and started knocking. It's amazing how much metal a broken liner makes! Hoping the bore is okay in my engine, haven't pulled the heads yet.

Original breaker will reset after it cools off. None of the switches had bad contacts. Very little wear, and I did not see any sign of arcing. I imagine if I wasn't so cheap, a new switch would fix the problem. Just seems like the breakers go bad with age. Hopefully I will never need a...

I thought about Cranetrtucks idea. I didn't want to do the extra wiring to install a relay, and a mil-spec 24volt one at that. And it's a good thing I took these apart, with the breakers being bad. Not sure they would have worked even without the headlight load.

Here's the other switches. They are all the same case, the guts are a little different. To take them apart there is a little screw under some rubber caulk. Then you have to hold the electrical connecter and tap the housing off. I used a 1-3/4 -18 thread die on the connector, then clamped it...

Here is the first switch I took apart. It has a wire ring on the back that holds the two halves together. Hardest part is pushing the electrical plug out of the rear housing. Plenty of oil, a pick to work the oil around the rubber, and a socket to push it out. The wire ring is pretty easy to...

I've never been happy with the 3 lever switches. Seems like they like to pop the circuit breaker at the worst times, leaving me without lights. Usually when I am towing at night on an interstate with the flashers on. Not a fun time. I've tried about 4 switches so far and they still pop, no...

Tinging usually means to me a driveshaft. Rubbing or loose?

Think someone mentioned this before, but a mirror on a magnet would be nice. Could set it up to see the cable being wrapped on the drum from the cab. One of those "I need to do that, but haven't yet ideas"

Pretty easy, don't think the metal was hardened. I put the dogbone back on with a hydraulic cylinder, and it pass the pry bar test. Looks like it never came off.

I saw the other thread on it, and noticed his looked like new, and it still came apart. Mine was also in good shape and came apart. Figured I'd post my problem and solution.

Recently had a dogbone (torque rod) come off the lower left rear axle while driving. This happened on a level stretch of road, about 45 mph. Truck acted like I blew a front tire, and headed straight for the ditch. I was able to control it, and pulled off. Now for the scary part. If the rod...

Looks like a MV to me. Pretty cool.

I have no problem with driving my trucks fast. Other's no. I've been through every brake part on each truck, and always have good tires. I will take on any other stock deuce in a braking contest and win.

If at all possible, go with a title. You might be able to get a bonded title, never done that. Ohio is a real pain about titles, even from states that don't have them. Have to do everything to the letter, and even then may have to go to multiple BMV's to get someone that can/will do it.

It's also easy to spot the deuces with wench's, instead of winches.

For home, a trailer ball in the bucket of my tractor works well.

Can't help you with that specific tranny, but have used leather seals at work. I would think as long as you move it regularly should be okay. Only thing I can think about leather was we had to pre soak the seals in oil before installing them.

M35 at 14,000lbs was about 100. M108 at 20,000lbs ran about 140.

Nice to know Dave. Neat to see the engines being used in other ways.