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Shouldn’t be different. The filter boss is 3/8” NPT, with 3/8-JIC6 male adapters. The fuel lines all have JIC-6 female ends…

Ok, the line from the middle of the top/square portion of the axle IS the axle vent line. where is the axle vent line on the other axle? I could see the lines from the 2 separate axle vents being tied together into a common vent port(T fitting to vented cap)…

Well the cap that rotates freely sounds like a vent cap… Each axle should have a vent line to the top of the axle housing. There should be the control air line to the power divider on the intermediary axle differential(AWD to 6WD control when mode/6X is selected) Each end of both axles should...

Cool!

Since you expressed a desire to both collect heat from the engine and to apply heat to the engine from the habitat heating system, you will need a circulating pump, so for this application I would not necessarily plumb it from a hi port to a low/suction port. There is a port on the passenger...

You do not want to do that. It probably would not bother the pump, but it would restrict your ability to cool the engine and transmission. Yes the radiator pipe is large, but this is as much for volume and surface area as it is low restriction. Remember all the coolant must pass thru the...

Ok, unless you are having something very custom built it will be virtually impossible to put a heat exchanger in the main line/flow path… it would have to be something like the transmission heat exchanger(2.5” inlet and outlet ports?)… if it was in the main line, how would you get heat into...

Ok, so how exactly are you going to put this INLINE(all the main flow passes thru it) BEFORE the thermostat, considering the thermostat is in the housing and bolted to the side of the head?

1. Coolant circulating pumps on engines are not positive displacement pumps. They create a small pressure differential and move fluid but they do not really build any pressure and do not really react to blockage except that the coolant doesn’t flow… 2. Unless you are putting it in the main...

here you might find this interesting, the clutch and shift sequence of the 3000 series transmission, which is the core of our 3070 AWD variation… keep in mind that the gear 1-6 she is talking about are actually gear 2-7 in our transmissions. To get to out 1st gear, clutch C3 and C6 are...

Well most of it is in chapter 7, 21 and 22 of the 34-2 manual. The 24P manual transmission exploded views can also be helpful(all available in the manuals section here on SS). Shift and solenoid sequencing can be found in the Allison transmission troubleshooting manual TS2470EN. Googling that...

"Hello Ronmar, I carefully followed your entire description. I noticed that the thrust bearing has a groove on the upper surface; do you know if it has one on the lower or flat surface as well? PS: I have already replaced the bearing with a new one because, while changing the oil, I found some...

Here are some pics to show oil flow. In the first pic the pressurized oil is delivered to the center rear of the P6 housing to that hole in the middle it flows up and around the end of the shaft following the red line, between the shaft and its rear plain bearing, then forward along the center...

Gauging the proper distance would be the tricky part as the shaft it rides on will expand and contract with temp changes(changes shaft length) and changing your amount of bearing load…. That space is also where ALL the lube oil that feeds the clutches, keeping them “wet” comes from, so there...

Radiator cooling fan to air clutch?

Wow! That was fast:)

Is your cab on square? The hooks are bolted on under the cab. Mine are symetrical on my arch guide pins, but my cab is rotated ~1/2” toward the left at the rear, so I need to make a little adjustment…

In the one door I reworked I switched to toyota rods(larger diameter, commonly available clips) to go with the toyota 4runner handles I used. the trimark claw latch control was already setup for that diameter rod... been a few years of casual usage now, but havn't touched it since...

You if course cannot lift the cab with that latch unsealed, and if you do get the cab up, you MUST install a cab support brace before you do any work on the hydraulic system…. You open that with the cab up and it could come down rapidly all by itself…

Seen right in your pic. Unscrew the big ass nut/cover that will release the spring holding it closed and also allow you to replace the seal…