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No problem, screen shots are from the -24 general support and maintenance manual. Table 1-2 calls for 3% on the frequency regulation, so ~ 2Hz droop at full load is about the acceptable range. If you turn the screw clockwise, decreasing the droop, but then start to find the engine RPM hunting...

Perfect! If you run into any issues needing parts that don't warrant tearing into an otherwise good spare engine, feel free to ask.

Yea, giant sections of missing exhaust will tend to increase noise a little! :ROFLMAO: Definitely check compression and the injector in that hole. Fingers crossed that the piston doesn't resemble the exhaust pipe!

Droop adjustment is covered in the TM. The screw is located on the front of the fuel rack and is accessed through a plug on the oil filter side of the timing gear cover. You use an Allen wrench ( hex key ) to adjust. If everything checks out fuel delivery wise and there is no smoke when the...

Looking at the specs. I'd say it's probably just a battery storage without a separate internal inverter. Seems it's intended use is for low load ( <2300W ) situations to conserve fuel, not really intended to boost the output of the generator. Maybe the battery adds some additional ( extremely...

Definitely looks fatigued more than corroded etc. IIRC the muffler assembly is all stainless, so fatigue seems more likely... Only other thought would be perhaps running the set a long time with a stuck open / leaking injector may have led to elevated EGT on that front cylinder?? If so I suspect...

Do you have a link to where you previously discussed your conversions?

We're all still chomping at the bit, wondering what you found?? :shrugs:

Note, on the dual float assembly the float tube position is adjustable separately from the SAE flange bolt pattern, so you also need to make sure that with the flange oriented correctly, the float assembly should be oriented left to right inside the tank, parallel to the long side of the tank.

Perhaps the OP can post a picture of his hook-up so we know exactly what the setup is regarding the welder plug and cut-out box etc. ?

It sounds to me like you may have a difficult time finding parts for something that old and not all that common. So getting them running may be problematic. Running and tested they're worth as much or as little as someone is willing to pay. They are probably not at all desirable for backup...

Hundreds of discussions about the subject here on the forum, but as Scoobyshep stated it's pretty much impossible with the 10 wire gen head.

Some good ideas in play there... For informational purposes, the spin on filter bases I make will also fit on an 004/005, without any adapter plates etc. These machines use the same Fram housing, just a longer canister and longer filter cartridge thank the 002/003...

Not sure how you are measuring things, but right off the bat I see a typo in the TM. It mentions a piston drop of .99" or 2.519mm 2.519mm is no where close to .99" it's probably supposed to say .099" but if you were at 2.519mm that is probably not your issue. Typically I just throw in 2 black...

Glad everything worked out in the end. Your plan to move in the 003 instead of the 004 is definitely the right move in my opinion.

I'd vote for a drop in replacement, assuming that would be the least expensive and easiest to swap out. ( especially in an emergency situation ) Expansion tank and a better filler neck design would be nice, but will no doubt add cost and complexity and I think many folks would prefer to keep...

FYI there's a sticky at the top of this forum with some tips on getting the pumps installed correctly. Quite often it can be a real bear if 1 thing is just slightly out of whack.

Interesting, it seems the PM system doesn't recognize you. Perhaps @patracy of @Guyfang can assist?

Hello, looks like you're too new here to send a PM, so I will contact you via private message with details.