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Got a set of aftermarket lugs for the wheels but they seem to be very tight. It's not damaging the studs but seem like it's not the right size.
The purchased lugs were 14mm x 1.5 threads (looked up the H1 specs and this was the size given).
Also happen to access to a H1 and the lugs on it...
I am having a hard time with the quick disconnect for the CTIS. The system is leaking an I thought it was from the QD... I tried to separate the QD but its seem to be stuck together. Thinking that it was an issue with the unit, I ordered new replacement. When the new unit arrived, it was...
Really struggling with the way the strap are properly attached to the tool. Any help would greatly appreciate. Instructions seem to by pass this stage.
Wilwood Caliper Upgrade for front
Has anyone done the Wilwood upgrade? If so, what else is required beside the rotor, caliper and the Wilwood adapter yoke for the m1114-m1151? Or do I need the whole kit? Also heard that the rotor is mated to the 12k axel or can I use the 10k?
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Are there special process for these fasteners? Hand operated or pneumatic? Specific types of rivets that need to be used?
Thanks
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Just wondering if anyone know or have install this:
It's very different from the standard one that's riveted on. Are there other hardware that's required to go with this cover?
I created a custom LED dash and trying to get all the correct sensors signal to feed the instrument gauges. The tachometer is the current task at hand. I ran a line from the AC terminal point of the 200amp Gen/Alt. The reading seem very high at idle (1800 rpm). Can I get some assistance with...
While prepping a transplant engine, I noticed that the pump plunger was stuck in the the depressed state (the pin was in). Is this a common problem? How much performance lost is due from this?
For all who have done this process, please share any special things or pitfalls that might help a first timer on this project. I will be using a standard engine hoist and separating the engine and tranny. Thanks
I have been using a wireless "kill" switch for about a month now. Seem to be effective at killing the off/on/start switch and also keeping the original look. I know it's not a supper complicated process. Just wanted to find out how many out there might be interested in this setup? No key...
Install manuals show that the drier should be mounted vertically. I have seen many pictures of them installed horizontally. Just want to confirm that vertical is the correct position… Thanks
Rebuilding the hub…. How critical is it to required the use of the plastic gasket between the input seal and the hub? Can I just use RTV silicone instead?
Trying to add 12v step down converter in the back seat compartment. Where is the closest switched source I can tap into? Thanks for your expertise knowledge in advance.
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