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i seem to remember something about 'not needing to shave or a haircut for awhile'

What happens to an H82 when you bypass the safeties, K8 and thermostats? Lucky for these guys, you only fill the burn chamber with fuel and it floods out and not explodes the whole thing. There is a time and place for testing but for everyday operating, use the safeties, they are there for a...

and there is a fix to a faulty unobtanium K8 relay. this is not exact, it does not have an alarm line, but it does have a light. the colored wires are same same, T-T are B-W from old, and F-F are same. I used this on a H82 that has been a cycle 2-3 times before running every time, with this...

Another odd K8 relay quirk found this weekend..... so it got cold and attempted to start a heater, cycled to heat 1 time then beeper and red light turned on, no biggie, first time starting this season..... and now only light and beeper even after resetting, check everything else, still red...

@IceCastle I will pm you, I have an idea but I dont want to show my ignorance in public just yet, I am going to have to re read your posts and comment in the pm as i read, so it might be a little bit.

IMO i would run the 82's especially since there is no manual available for 81 I have ran my 82 for 387 real hours, my timer is on the burner not the fan circuit. I also deleted the dinky fuel filter and the selector valve for tank and aux (it was sucking air) 82's have issues but we have...

Update on a 'red light of death' issue My A #1 heater thru a fit when I attempted to use it today, red light no start, throw a fit, red light, attempt to start, run 1-2 minutes, red light come on again, running good fuel psi at low psi, running good psi on heat, then throws red light. ends up...

it doesnt hurt,..... that injector is a big hole, so unless you are burning used oil or ethylene glycol antifreeze thru your heater, it probably will never plug up. I have 387 real hours of run time on mine running d1, d2, k1, jp8, jp4, some oil, sometimes a whiff of gas from the bottom of the...

not an adapter that I know of, just whack off the amphenol connector, and the wires in the cable are color coded like a house.

my guess would be broken coupler from motor to fuel pump.

So on another heater while it was so cold, had issues with fluctating fuel psi, not bad like 5 lbs, and sometimes kicking redlight of death on, find its leaking air at ‘intermal/external’ valve, figure while i am deleting stuff might want to put a better filter on. well i get that fixed, its...

Well, i finally had a fuel pump coupler fail, so i am having some 3d printed with abs, we will use those cheap ones for fit and finish, then distructive testing to measure strength of different print orientation, after we figure strength, we will have new couplers machined from deleron or teflon...

Tm does say under conditions, solenoid valves removed which includes the lines

Are you still using the midevil filter setup? I understand its just for major debris, but wow. i might try a real filter setup unless you have time and warm weather to tear the heater all down. i dont think you have to remove all of the components, i think i would try just pulling the fuel...

Not a bad idea, but every one that i have worked on the fuel gauge was not correct. i would pull the pickup tube first, or blow air backwards, if you aren’t moving it around all the junk should say settled in the bottom.

So i have more time to explain, if you have ducting on the heated exhaust air that has some bends, or restricted, you want to run that temp like 10*F warmer tokeep the burner from kicking on and off. if you dont have ducting, set exhaust temp at what you want the exhaust air temp, and the...

Those are intake (cold air) and exhaust (heated air)temp adjustment, set them at the temp you want the burner to kick off, same like your house thermostat

which knobs are you referring to? photo?

Yeah, if that were mine, i would pull burner and clean, then adjust igniter

Does your igniter look pretty blue when not on heat?