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Can you find a die spring on McMaster, or at Lee Spring, to replace it?

If you have trouble finding a piston, you could always get one made. It's not a very complicated part. We would just have to measure up an existing one, and make a model/drawing for it. For what some people want for the whole latch, or other parts, it still may be a cheaper way to go.

The system is designed for the aircraft fluids that Aleigh listed, and you DO want to use them. They contain corrosion inhibitors that will keep the system from rusting out from the inside, as a number of owners have found while using regular hydraulic fluid. There is no particular design flaw...

The military fluid has no desiccant properties. It does have anti-corrosion additives in it, though.

Well, that's why I was mentioning/wondering that everything on the truck has similar breathers/vents, with no real ill effects, and most of the other components aren't using special anti-corrosion oil or anything. If you put the cover (chem detector mount bracket) on, or some other shield, and...

Most of the trucks (as originally constructed) have a cover over the pump, so rain doesn't really have a straight path into it (any more than any of the other axle or transmission vents, etc.). Even with water in the fluid, the military anti-corrosion fluid will help it survive [longer].

For anyone that reads this thread in the future, the reason to use the red military fluid is that it contains anti-corrosion additives. Regular hydraulic fluid doesn't, and so over time your system/pump/cylinder/latch/etc. will rust out.

The small seal in the cover is just a dust guard, not a seal. There are two actual seals in the whole assembly, which hold back hydraulic fluid. 1.) The big o-ring on the piston, which can be replaced as described above. (Was it #221?). 2.) A small o-ring in the main body of the latch (the...

My problems were not the same as yours. The inside of my latch cylinder was shiny and clean, and it all moved smoothly by hand. There is (or should be) an o-ring that seals the large latch-side pin, but it's inside the cylinder housing, not on the pin itself. The "orange" fluid is likely...

Just an update. No amount of raising/lowering, prying, jumping on, or clamping would latch the cab. I drove it a mile or two, and it was latched. It must just need a bit of jostling that can't be done by hand. I'm wondering if maybe it just needs to have the pin taken out and a little bit...

This is my current leading theory. Any idea what would cause that, or where I should start looking to solve it? Also just to clarify, what constitutes as the lock pin being fully latched? I'm guessing that fully locked means the head of the pin is submerged under the face of the nut, not...

Once my cab is over center it does not gravity-feed down. It stays there unless I pump it. The same is true of raising. Is that abnormal?

I wish I could get a better look at what the latch is doing when the cab lowers, but there is just too much in the way with no good way to view it. It seems like the cab is seating fully in the latch - far enough for the lock pin to engage - but I want to prove it. I wonder if I can raise the...

Is the lock just an added safety precaution, or is it what is doing ALL the holding down of the cab while driving? So it is totally unsafe to drive unless the cab can latch?

Once the cab is all the way down it pumps maybe 10 more times and won't pump anymore. If you release the button and pump again, sometimes you'll get a couple more clicks. Is that the expected behavior?

Yes, all that is true, but I just had it all apart to replace the o-ring, and as my steps 1-3 above describe, the latch pin is at least capable of moving. Everything inside looked nice... shiny, clean, no rust or corrosion.

I was just posting with the same problem! I changed the o-ring, and the leaking has stopped. But the lock pin no longer engages when the cab goes down. Here's what I've tried so far... 1. With the cab up, I can use a screwdriver to depress the latch cam, but the lock lever is held open. 2...

What size drive? 1/2"? 3/4"?

Thanks. Mine is leaking bad and won't latch the cab and more. Off to find that 216 oring...