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Being we covered everything in the book that would have never crossed my mind that the fuel control unit assembly was put together wrong. Will have to add this one to the books. Well by now you should have a fuel system that is ready to rock and roll for a long time.
Glad you figured it out because too much thinking was making my brain hurt.
So when you had the fuel control unit assembly out you disassembled it?
Yea the correct orientation is in the TM.
Even if timing was off seems like you should still have fuel coming out one of the head ports. Now with that said I am grasping at straws here and taking on water. When you said valve covers were off and both valves were closed you checked timing. Did you watch # 1 intake drop and then close...
This is getting mind blowing. With everything that has been checked it should start. Someone said the tappet cam being worn but I do not know and it would take a lot to wear it out but it can not be ruled out. I posted in a thread where I measured how much the plunger could move by checking...
Well if the lower end of the IP is working why pay to just have it pulled apart at that price and gaskets changed when the problem could be in the Head. If you checked the fuel control unit assembly for free movement and it is working as it should and going from 7 when off to 4 shut off when...
Me still thinking and brain starting to hurt. OK the overflow valve is on the return side of the head. That helps to maintain the fuel pressure that the booster puts out. Easy check remove cap do not loose spring and remove valve. Turn on in tank check for trash and check small hole that is in...
Pinched line start looking and that copper line from primary to rubber IP maybe first. Air maybe rubber hose in tank. I feel its wanting to run so keep going with the adventure.
Well we really don't not have a rack when I think of a rack system even though the TM calls it that. When I think of an older Detroit that has a separate governor tied to a bar and that bar controls each injector. From there we would set the rack adjusting every injector so the same amount of...
Just again spit balling. Know you said no fuel coming out of head but wonder if we / you should be looking at injectors. We need two hole tips and popping at least 3500psi.
Yep that was my fault when we removed the head I should have just taken your head with me home and pulled it completely apart and good cleaning. Since then we have become GOOD friends and I regret not taking charge of the head and it being less work for both of us but we got it running.
Yes you will get fuel out of the top center cap but delivery valve could be stuck open. You said your good there. Timing looks spot on. As for the pin / fuel control unit getting into the sleeve in most cases it is not a problem. That saying the sleeve is floating free and sitting on the bottom...
Even though we do not have to bleed the injectors on the Deuce would seem like if the Head was getting any flow of fuel you should have gotten something when you cracked the injectors. I have started and it idled without the secondary fuel filter over pressure valve in the truck. Showing we do...
Myself I would stay away from old used head for now and look into a new China replacement. Better bet in the long run to have a new one if you can not get the truck running.
I do not know what a bread loaf is in a deuce IP and I am just passing on about the plunger and plunger guide from another members post. He some how got the plunger guide and plunger off when he assembled them. I do not have my extra head anymore or I would take it apart and see how it could be...
Ok a couple of things that button clip bothers me and I had to read your post again. You said you removed the plunger and plunger guide. The plunger and plunger guide can be put in 180* out of time. Hate to ask are your sure you got that back just the way it came apart? The drive gear with the...
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