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You need to confirm this yourself. Use a meter and verify you have continuity (Very LOW ohms) between L0 and the ground lug on the frame. If you do, then you do NOT need to ground L0 separately. I say confirm it yourself because you never know if someone removed the L0 bond before you got it...

There you go thinking too much into it again....remember, the switch you are using switches the neutral...so, when you are on utility power, the neutral coming from the generator is not used. It's not connected to anything because of the nature of the switch, so it does nothing...can't have any...

You're making this way more complicated than it needs to be. First and foremost, unless your transfer switch is a double throw (meaning it has a center position on the handle, with no connection to anything anywhere) then you WILL need some means of service disconnect between your meter and...

No, it shouldn't be. The only thing I might have left out is "If you have things hooked up properly, anytime you are running the set the frame will be grounded" It doesn't matter if you have it hooked up permanently to a transfer switch, through a cord and plug or as a stand alone generator...

Your last post should be self evident if you think about the question. Your generator frame, whether used in a Non SDS or an SDS, is ALWAYS grounded. It must be or bad things can happen (to you if something goes wrong with the wiring). That is why you are running 4 wires for the hook-up, one...

Don't confuse Ground with Neutral !!! The GROUND comes from the ground rod or your home's grounding system. The Neutral wire is what completes the 120 volt circuit

No matter what configuration you use. The GROUND always goes to the split-bolt connector on the frame under the control panel.

Read post #25...#20 was before I started digging deeper into the NEC

not a great quality picture, but that looks like a standard fuse holder (missing the fuse and cap of course) for a glass automotive (old style automotive) fuse.

NEC Article 90.2 Scope (from the 2008 McGraw Hill NEC Handbook) “ (A) Simply stated, the code applies to all electrical work-indoors and outdoors-other than that work excluded by the rules of part (B) in this section.” The NEC in Article 100 defines a Separately Derived System as...

Andy, I am not aware of any specific code prohibiting it, but I highly doubt that you would pass any kind of an inspection simply because there would be no way to ensure that you couldn't possibly have the switch in the wrong position at any given time. That's the whole point of having the...

L0 is bonded to the frame where the two groups of wires come out of the generator head itself, they go into the lower control panel on the left, but one of those wires also swings back around and bonds L0 to the frame...that's the one that should be disconnected and isolated. This is a picture...

I'll work on a few in a little while.

I know this thread has gotten off track quite a bit from the original post, but I feel I need to clear a few things up for ya’ll. This may clear them up, or it may confuse you even more. This all deals with the NEC language, and even after all of these years dealing with it, I still get...

Ike, I am not disagreeing with you. Unbonding the neutral from the ground is a safe way to do it....if you are driving a ground at the generator itself. Also, the NEC is supposed to be the basic rules for any electrical work, if manufacturers or localities want to go above and beyond the NEC...

Andy and the rest of you guys. I would have jumped into this discussion earlier, but I have been out of town. GROUNDING!!!!!!!!! You DO NOT NEED to disconnect the neutral ground of the generator. You also DO NOT NEED to drive a ground rod at the generator! As a matter of fact, you should not...