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Right Jim. I'm positive that Ike's group 24s will work fine in the coldest of weather. That's what I have in my 003A, and in past decades I've put 24s to the test a few times in other applications.

I'd rather ship them to Jerry, who has experience with these particular injectors and is known to do good work than to go to someone local I don't know, and take a chance.

I feel better now. :D

Did you really sell it?

Jim, as I'm sure you know, some motor types and designs draw more starting current than others. I measured starting current drawn by three motors a few years ago. They were good quality Baldor 3-phase 1750 RPM motors. They were 5, 10, and 15 hp, and all three drew right around 10 times their...

I'm probably forgetting, but last I remember, you were soldering to the stub of the broken wire on the original capacitor. What did you end up using? Edit: I searched the thread and found it on p. 4. I was getting you mixed up with another member, I guess.

I don't remember if you already did this, but it sounds like a compression test might be in order. My oil pressure is about at the top of the gauge when cold and drops to around 30-35 when hot, but that depends a lot on just what oil you're using and how long it's been in there. Oil pressure...

Jim, the behavior of your frequency meter sounds like the way mine behaves when it's way below speed. It's all over the place, and then when I get close to 1800, it does what it's supposed to. No smoke from my dipstick tube.

I have a feeling there are plenty. I was looking at the 004A manuals today and found a bunch. The worst was a schematic that had transistors with unconnected leads.

The pistons follow each other, but are one full revolution apart in the cycle. One cylinder fires each 1/2 turn of the engine.

No problem with the vertical scratches you can't feel. Perfectly normal wear.