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thanks! I’ll take your advice and put a bead at the top. I ended up just moving two of the AFCI circuits to the sub panel. That was easier than trying to unbundle all the wires to find the right neutral to move to the sub panel (to go with the hot I was relocating. Saved me $100 too, by not...

Agreed, that it how it should be done. I had to go to 3-4 different stores just to get the PVC that I did. For some reason, supply is tight in the Houston area.

Thanks, Toby. I ended up thinking outside the box and moving some of the conduit routed below the panel, and ran it that way. Appreciate your help!

Thank! It's certainly the path of least resistance. What products do you recommend for sealing where the conduit enters the load centers?

Thanks, Toby. The location to the right of the meter is the only place on the wall available. I think there's enough room on the right to get my punch set in there, but I see your point. Being visible from the road, I'm trying to minimize my conduit runs, its already pretty ugly... Are you...

I agree. That's my plan. Now I'm just trying to decide if I'm able to punch out a hole in the upper right hand side of the panel and run a straight conduit over to the sub panel. I could possibly go up through the hub (which is currently unused) but I like the straight shot better, if possible...

If that were the case, then why is my new sub panel rated at 12/24? (12 slots, 24 circuits??)

Exactly. I had the panel replaced on my 2003 house, and in doing so had to be brought up to code. I can only imagine what a panel replacement will cost under NEC 2020 where basically all 120v circuits need to be AFCI Although I will say... As soon as my panel was replaced every time I'd turn on...

Yes... Have to LOVE Tx.... Not only are they great to look at, it makes flipping a circuit extremely safe in a hurricane, etc.. In all honesty, it's stupid and lazy.

Correct. I live in TX where they've recently adopted NEC 2020 which uses ARC Fault circuits on virtually every indoor 120v circuit... Which is annoying since they're about $50/ea vs $20 for the Square D QO series.. Oh well.. Pay to play so that your wife can visually tell which breaker is tripped...

Thanks, Toby. Understood that everything is an opinion and that non-electricians shouldn't do work in the panel. I'm going to pull the cover and the lower breakers at lunch and see if I can even fit the CTL tandem breakers in there. If I cannot, I WON'T modify them to fit and I'll just bite the...

Thanks, DiselAddict. Based on this article you posed (http://www.ncwhomeinspections.com/42+Circuit+Rule), it says " For example you could have a 240v circuit, that is just one circuit but has two pole positions." that leads me to believe that 240v = 1 circuit (out of my 40 max) Do you interpret...

Yes, that is with the cover off (which has the labels). I didn't wire the panel, an electrician did. There are: 8 x 240v branch circuits 1 x 240v generator back feed (in the correct location) 22 x single circuit single space breakers Total = 40 circuits / 40 spaces.

I do, but haven't checked at the panel. I ran for a few days off the MEP-803A during the Texas winter storm in February and I was well balanced then. All circuits were on at that point in time, and nothing has been added since.

Appreciate your help!

Thanks, Wheelspinner. Mayber I'm over thinking it. I believe that a tandem breaker = 2 circuits. Single (normal) breaker = 1 circuit. I want to say that 240v circuit = 1 circuit (although it takes up two "slots").

This is a non-generator related question. I have a Square D QO load center. I'm in the process of adding a sub panel. Sub panel will be mounted ~3ft from the main panel. I'm aware that I need to remove the bonding screw in the sub to keep neutral/ground separate. I'll be running 4 gauge copper...