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what are you pointing out on the tree?

what is "piggyback" in brake chamber lingo?

so what do we have here? a 12v disconnect and a 24v disconnect? Where did you put the equalizer?

Unimog attempted a 6x6 with the final axle being hydraulic powered..... it actually went into production.... End result... to many hydraulic motor(?) failures. Not sure what they did for everyone who bought that model truck. Far as I know the whole idea has been scrapped since then.

the more expensive way (compared to selling your 12v and buying a 24v) https://www.4x4offroadclinic.com.au/shop/recovery-parts-and-accessories/winch-accessories/winch-turbo-booster-box-12-volt-to-24-volt/ https://www.gigglepinaustralia.com.au/products/gigglepin-pro150-albright-winch-solenoid

IMHO dont run your winch on 12v. Your asking for trouble in battery imbalance that is going to cost you way more money in the long run. Search the interwebs on how to run a 12v winch on 24v. Competitive offroaders do it cause it speeds up the line pull. Does not increase the pulling power...

home brewed by an Arduino enthusiast; member from here. Far as I know its only been tested on A0 and A1 FMTV's. If the OEM FMTV CTIS controller works fine on M35A3's would reason that this would also work on them..... but that is just a guess.

Thank YOU for the FUBARing for the rest of us... so we don't lol. :papabear: Oh wait... :3dAngus: I take that back..... dang you ...... NOW we have No EXCUSES... we've been warned.... and provided with reality example. grrr :hammer:

that is what I was thinking... like it cracked at the casting mark. you can also see at least one of the cracks radiating out inwardly of the circle though in which he mentioned.

thats crazy...... Maybe fore you go much further put a "run out gauge" (think that is proper term/tool) on the block and dial it to your crank end. slowly turn it and see if it turns w/out micro wobble? Or maybe just to check if the end of the crank is not milled funky.... that is such a...

IMHO..... when one has questions that are more about the truck than the RV side.... suggest they be asked in the matching military SS truck forum where there are more gear heads. Also, and most importantly IMHO, it sorta compartmentalizes the information and helps others searching for stuff...

just replace with one of the light versions of Linux and your good to go for another 5-10 years ..... and be better off... maybe even better off that Win 10

yikes.... I got only to axles.... you got deeeeep....... and tire in air spinning being an issue I'm guessing means you did not get a locker when ya did gear swap did you? Bet your thinking different on that now lol. looking forward to Ronmar toying with something to individually...

Sorry to hear you went thru that. Can empathize. Been there sunk that. alll to axles too.... w/rear locker..... had to drive it out.... nothing to pull it..... foot on brake..... gun it spool turbo then foot off break... move a few inches... back up..... go again.. plus logs, brick...

Got a little stuck ahyyy?

yes.... batteries disconnected could cause this. It will need to relearn shift . below is how to enter learning mode

You probably know this.... but just in case. make sure to vent that LP box. Low as possible.... LP is heavier than air. Venting LP compartment is vehicle code as well anyway. (so is not allowing any air/gas transfer to living space but you have that covered)

interesting. didnt know that gizmo existed.. what does one keep an eye out for on gov. planet for a beast like that? I do have a Dometic one though

Maybe two used bumper mower/chair lifts rehabbed and modified? Have them sit side to side of one another but one placed higher up. I say two cause one will not raise high enough. so you end up with two.... each their own landing. sit in a chair or stand on one as it raises as high as it...

that is a very reasonable price. some have made use of an EGR removed from various cars for same purpose. Sometimes you can get them for free