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nahhhh. tweeker will give up before they can get thru these tanks. Now a regular car or truck with thin sheet metal fuel tanks...... that's different. no drill need. Strong nail and hammer is all you need.

do you have the pump tilted? Pretty sure it is suppose to have some slope. it is part of how a metering pump works on these. This video covers the wear/tear of pump if not angled... but only mentions in fast passing there is possible air lock happening not allowing fuel thru after the air...

can you snap a shot or two of where you tapped your hot water from now? I've got to tap in a diesel coolant heater eventually so am curious.

be aware..... word is many parks for insurance reasons will NOT ALLOW any self built campers. So if you plan to stay in a "campground" with full hook up like RV sites... your rig better look like it came from an RV manufacture. Rigs from a certified manufacture have to follow RV electrical...

hooking up a trailer; box or flat bed, pulled behind the 1085 is significanly easier than removing habitat box from 1085 so you can use the bed.

will be interesting to see if bead dust clogs those filters. Beads have come along way... they likely do not break up as much like they use too so it may be a non issue. Time will tell

if your hell bent on tilting..... put actuator to lift in center some how on pivots along with pins that can be removed/replaced in corners of solar array. Then you can tilt north south east or west. Basically works like how center lift in a Unimog and others with 3 way dump beds. Electric...

is it worth it to add tilt mechanism? Are the gains much? My understanding was the gains earned with tilt mechanism etc. are more expensive over time compared to just adding more panels??? Read that was not true in the past... is now with cost of panels dropped so much over last few years...

ohhhhh. like that. Have considered Urine for running solar powered HHO Brown gas for engine cleaning and long upgrades. Urine does not need a catalyst compared to typical HHO system) But .. bit hesitant. My HHO system is from UK ... was test product for city busses..... rare and...

they sell 12v hot water heater elements.... standard hot water heater configuration. Might work fine for what your thinking if you put it high enough to not be close to plastic edge ... but not so high it could never NOT be submerged. Granted guess one could put it in a small side metal...

suggest you take it like it is thru some trails etc. to see how much the rear swing is good/not good for you.

much thanks.... gives me ideas on how to install my old school coolant military diesel heater and smaller china heater coolant side for just bunk or low heat

do not know what an ITR is but yeah.. agree instant is better .... especially if you add a recirculating valve to push the not yet warm water back to the water tank. Most full time RV'rs end up going that way now.... But at same time understand that why not capture coolant heat and store it...

Im not really a welder but geez... the welding on this tanks pic looks like shiat?? why all the trouble using a calorifier... as expensive as they are. They are old school in method. IMHO just use a very well insulated 5-10 gal LP / 12v (converted to 24v elements) Electric RV water heater...

Cleanup isle one. Mod can delete this post

since your building your own camper box..... why not design in a trap door (and framing below) that allows for tranny access? Ton easier than removing camper box. Am hoping to put my former ambulance box down as close to truck chassis as possible.... thus I'll be cutting out floor and...

duhhh :cookoo:aua I'm stupid! lol...... should have seen that logic myself. Smart move

so in review- on each side; you fixed the camper to the truck chassis by the cab... from there rearward is three; logically placed, progressively decreasing captured spring attachments between camper and truck chassis? why did you choose to do camper solid fix by the cab instead of opposite...

figured it was not tied to mount... is that a flat plate in the shape drawn or a bent plate for added strength? Good idea about holes to reach the bolts

looking at what you drew..... how would one get in there to remove bolts for replacing tranny mounts or similar type work?