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.... or the whole input shaft has somehow moved backwards a couple mm??:? Before you pull apart the whole TC, here are a few dimensions you can check and compare with yours, after removing that top 4-bolt cover (plus the poppet ball, stem & spring) .... For fairly new parts, the synchro collar...

You may be able to remove the lid alone. But then, getting all shafts back in place at once will be challenging, at least. Have you found already what causes the synchro to not fully engage?

But for that to happen, the fork (and also the clutch collar) must have a lot of wear. You must have noticed that when you had it all apart, no....?

Yes, it is.... It doesn't take much movement (<3/16") to prevent the H-L lever & linkage from fully engaging in gear. The slip joint on that jack shaft certainly allows for much more travel than that.

Yes, the whole synchronizer assembly moves back and forth, but only a couple mm each way, until the (gold colored) rings make contact with the respective gear cone. Past that travel, what really moves is the clutch collar itself. About 15mm out of neutral position, each way. Meaning that the...

Not, unless the fork was terribly worn out... I mean, worse than this one.... You will have to remove that 4-bolt cover, to take a look inside.

In the best case, the TC mounts are loose and the whole TC has shifted to the rear of vehicle, not allowing full (inward)travel of the shift shaft when shifting into high gear. Second best scenario (and also relatively easy to check and fix): somehow the fork's set screw (#12) broke loose and...