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hank, since the fan clutch is a fixed load you can use a 4 ohm, 40 watt resistor is series to operate it from 12 volts. otherwise you need a vanner equilizer or you will have battery problems. what do the neighbors think?? tom

you are going to have to look at the data plate on that trans, but i strongly suspect it is a 1:1 final drive, so not much good to you unless you just want to go no more that 50 mph. as to the engine, i don't know a lot about cummins, but the T is for turbo and the A is for after-cooled. one...

you want a 3060 (not P), but you will get into a hugh expense with controllor, wiring, etc. anywhere from 6k to 8k, plus you will need to move the transfer back. got room?? better to find a 8.3 cummins, it WILL fit.

the factory flasher is solid state and does not care how much wattage is attached (within reason) it will flash the same rate. sounds like you have a grounding issue and the front turn bulbs may have been grounded thru the marker circuit until you turned them on removing that path. do they flash...

hank, you jumped the correct wires and they have nothing at all to do with the turn signals, that is only the side markers. the front turns are i believe a separet bulb. if your rears flash your flasher is good.

stock LDT setting is 9 psi @ 2500 rpm. many are set very conservativly. you should be able to get close to 14 psi @ 1200 °f and be safe, the power differance will be impressive.

missed that, ok on shut down but there is a pretty good flow from the return so timing it just right will be difficult. as for starting, how long to run it before it is warm enough to switch fuels? in 5 minutes a lot of diesel will flow into the main tank leaving the 'starting' tank low.

if you have 2 tanks you have to switch the supply AND the return. if you don't the tank will quickly be drained into the other tank which may be too full to hold it. valves are cheap and easy to get. google anderson brass in SC

just a note as this will apply to anyone removing the radiator. it is not necessary to remove the fan, as you tilt the rad forward, rotate the blades and it will come right out. i say this because it looks like removing the fan bolts would not be real easy with the rad in place. of course this...

pitman arm puller made by snap-on or otc, looks like this. comes in several sizes, the correct size fits well and will pull the arm right off easily. this is the style i have always used. tom