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Removed the cab. I've seen the use of a big crane to do this, but the cab only needs to be lifted a couple of inches then can be moved straight forward and off. With the "floating" crossmember still attached the cab sits flat on a pallet. Some lag bolts secur it there.
Upside down, but does not rotate the opposite way? Ring gear not on the other side? The new axle lengths I need will be 51.375" & 40.750 ". The intermediates are 49" & 44 ".
So a good friend, Paul, says to me: " Since you are removing the cab and re-plumbing everything, why not put a shorter cab on there. Then you can roll with us ( he means the Jeep guys) to Charleau Gap and other places you can't get a ten foot high truck into." Well now.....
The LMTV is paid for, its all labor cutting bolts/drill holes, the only expense I see is running new air/power steering/fuel line which I was doing anyway. :) All the air over hydraulic goes away as I deleted the kneeling capability, the spare tire deployment mechanism, the air bags go away, and...
You guys are getting warm....The weight of the cab on top of the engine on top of the axle = front heavy. The cab on the rear distributes the weight, eliminates heat load into the cab from the engine making it practical to air condition, dispenses with the cab tilt mechanisms, diminishes engine...
Actually, Coachgeo, I will be using advice you gave to me back when I removed the bed, and I was lamenting how front heavy the truck is: "Put an engine block over the rear axle, that will help"......Stand by, like I say, I prefer to show results before saying too much. Haters ya know.....
Not exactly. I am, however, taking advantage of the chassis frame rails being the same dimension front to back. In principle, any of the suspended components can go anywhere along its length . The guys making deuce and 5-ton bobbers do it all the time.
I prefer to show what I have done rather...
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