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I've thought about post-derusting preservation a good bit, as I've derusted quite a few things over the years. My answer is: it depends. The good news is that electrolytic derusting does a good job of removing chlorine free radicals from the metal, which means that the metal will rust when it...

Yes, that's the thing about it - it's easy and completely non-damaging to the work item as long as you hook the wires up the right way. The only thing I've had problems with was cooking my current sources with too much load.

Obviously immersing the whole part is best if you can pull it off. If you can't then derust part, treat it with something (phosphate is good), then flip it over and do the other part. Nothing. That's the problem. The oil keeps the electrolyte from getting to the rust.

Yes and no. Vinegar is great stuff. It's my favorite carburetor parts cleaner. That said, the chemistry of using an acid (acetic acid in this case) is completely different from using a base (alkali) as your rust remover. All acids etch metal. A salt, by definition, is the result of the...

Yes, this works great on exhaust manifolds. An exhaust manifold was my second test part when I was in the 'this is too good to be true' phase of experimentation. Remember, though that the sacrificial cathode has to be in line of sight from the parts you want the rust to disappear from. For...

I use both the electrolytic method and Evapo-rust. Evapo-rust works great, but is expensive. Electrolytic works great and is cheap, but requires a good electrical connection between all the bits you're trying to derust and the anode source (it's an alkaline system, so you have a sacrificial...