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923a1 no start

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
Hey guys I need help on this one. Yes I did check the tm's for this, but it gave answers that were obvious, and left me in the dark.
So here is what happened- started truck- moved truck to ft.yard- moved car- went back to truck that is now not running- try to restart wont run - gave up. The next day I went out and tried to figure out what happened- I found a blown fuse under dash on # 10 wire. I've read that the control box can do weird things, so unbolted box and opened it up. It had a melted diode on the top solenoid. I ohmed it out and went to radio shack and napa replaced diode and solenoid. Anyway the fuse on #10 wire wont pop a fuse with control box unplugged-I don't know if this fuse has any bearing on running/starting issue. Pulled fuel filter canister and it was only half full, so topped it off and tried to restart - no go. Primer lever will pull out but will not push back in easily. Truck will run on ether. I added air to tank to check for fuel leaks , none found . What would you recommend as my next step. The tm's all say fuel related, which I know it is, but I don't know where to look next. Almost forgot , its a 85 250 non turbo
 
Last edited:

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
Yeah GR I learned all about the fuel system on my a2 when my lift pump acted up on mine.
The dealer was actually cheaper than napa, and I got a cummins part [ made in china ]
The problem is that I don't know the a1 fuel system operation as well as my a2.
This is a good friends truck that has a older model.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Have you ever replaced the hose going from the filter under the fender to the IP? A guy I work for on occasion won't even try to start one with out putting a new hose on there. Seems they are prone to getting pin holes and sucking air.
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
I will check that hose in the am. I know that it will something simple that is being overlooked, now if I can only find my pinhole in fuel line wrench ha ha

GR hey thanks for the help I will sleep better tonite knowing that maybe I have a fix in the am
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
118
63
Location
Gray, GA
Screenshot_2015-05-03-06-25-35.jpg

The #10 wire appears to go to the ABS system from the diagram. Diagram from the back of TM -23-5. I'm not the best with electrical schematics though.

Verify your emergency engine stop valve is open completely. My next step would be to manually open the fuel shutoff solenoid with the thumbscrew and try to start. If it starts then verify you have 24V to the solenoid with the switches on. Since you found other electrical issues I'd go ahead and rule this out before proceeding. It's easy enough to check.
 

wheelspinner

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,744
1,508
113
Location
North Carolina - FINALLY !
The PCB and ABS both ground at the PCB mounting studs. Take all four out, and clean all surfaces especially of PAINT. A floating ground there will cause all kinds of problems. I have found two out of three had paint still on the spacers of the studs which caused bad grounds.
 

R Racing

Active member
2,767
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Location
St. Leonard, MD
there is a screw on the solenoid you turn to bypass the fuel to the pump. some are straight blade some are allen . turn it and it will allow fuel to go to the pump to allow the engine to run. use you emergency engine stop to turn off. don't forget to reset the emergency stop arm at the pump after it is pulled or the truck will not restart.
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
R Racing- The funny thing is that the emergency stop will not move either way.
It is stuck in the forward position, since the truck ran before like this, I thaught it to be ok.
This is a friends truck, lets just say maint. was not on lettermans top 10 list.
 
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