AC 60Gs, do I NEED 12v bypass

[Miah]

I'm in the process of buying a M1009 from a friend & doing some running repairs.

Half the stock Wellman GPs were bad so we replaced them with AC 60gs since the local parts places had them in-stock. This weekend I'm adding a push button for warm-ish starts since the truck isn't good about starting w/o the GPs kicking in. Do I NEED to do any changes to the rest of the system?

The stock GP controller seems to be doing OK with them so far, but I wasn't sure if I was setting myself up for catastrophic failure down the road. Not extremely mechanically minded & just learning as I go on this.

 

[Westech]

Why are you doing a push button? It will NEVER work as good as the stock system..... Do some more research.

And Welcome.. some say I an not nice to the new guys. If I was not nice I would have told you to Do the push button.

all I can say is good luck with the CUCV.. you will ether figure it out and become handy or have a psychotic episode.

 

[Miah]

Adding a push button since it's not the best about starting once warm enough that the GP relay quits kicking in.

 

[Westech]

Get the TM and fix it..... I have owned and rebuild 6 CUCV's and been in the hobby for a long time. No matter what the FNG's say.. a push button will never function as good as a working factory system.... if it is not working fix it.

 

[Midnight Rider]

If I am reading your post correctly, the AC60G's will work fine in place of the Wellmans without any changes.

I am a little confused about using a push button and having the original system still in place, but if it worked like that with the Wellman's then it should work like that with the AC60G's.

Of course maybe using the push button and the stock system is what messed up the glow plugs to begin with.

 

[Miah]

Edited the post for a bit of clarity. I do a whole lot of stop & go, shut off/turn on & once the engine warms up enough that the GP controller doesn't need to cycle the GPs it doesn't really want to start.

Not in a position to do any moderate $$$ repairs at the moment, so planning on tying in a manual button for warm starts, tying into the light blue wire on the GP relay as has been suggested by some on the forums here.

 

[Warthog]

Yes he 06s will work fine. Depending on how the push button was wired, it may or may not work with the controller.

You only need to tap into the blue wire on the GP relay to make a simple push button system.

Blue wire to switch and switch to ground.

As Westech says the stock glowlug system works very well if all of the componets are working correctly. Usually it is a dirty connection somewhere.

And the 12v bypass of the resistor is an easy fix to a potential problem.

 

[DokWatson]

Bypassing the resistors won't hurt anything, resupplying the glow plugs with 12 volts from the nearby junction block is a good modification. I disconnected the left side of the resistor bank. Then I cut the wire from the right side of the resistors to keep the fusible link and ran that to the junction block. Works great, don't forget to disconnect your batteries when cutting power wires!

I removed my glow plug card and wired a manual switch because my truck is primarily a cross country off-roading rig. Gets most of its use 100's of miles away from anyone else. One less thing to go bad out there. I think it works just fine, I like my button.

Hard starting when warm doesn't point to a glow plug issue. You shouldn't need glow plugs when the engine is warm. My truck will start without glow plugs after I sit in class for an hour and 45 minutes. Its actually a fuel related issue, and points to a worn out IP. I've heard a shade tree test for this is cooling down the IP with -lukewarm- water and then trying to start it.

You might be lucky and have loose injector lines, which causes the same symptoms because the pump looses prime and lets air in the system. Make sure they are all tight. Check for any other fuel leaks, they can all let air in. A good indicator of a fuel leak is a strong diesel smell about the engine (Duh right...)

Good luck, hope some of this helps.

 

[Westech]

Good point.... Not a bad thing to try before reinventing the wheel

 

[m38inmaine]

I agree with DocWatson, your IP is worn out if it won't hot start. By not replacing it you are increasing the wear on the starter and glow plug system.

 

[Miah]

Since the truck isn't mine...yet... I'm a bit unwilling to spend the needed $$ on a replacement IP until a deal is finalized. New GPs & a push button for warm starts will have to suffice for now.

 

[Hasdrubal]

A lot of negativity re the push button system there mate. I disagree with you! I've run mine for 6 years, works great, and I do after glow when its cold. Many of the guys up here with CUCV's have done the same. And no.. we are not FNG's. Another thing to consider is the stock card is set up for the old plug design. AC60's require a longer burn time, in fact mine likes twice the time that the wait light shows. So I would think the push button is almost mandatory when going to AC60's.

 

[kentuckycucv]

Ditto on air in fuel line... I had a bad "fuel pressure sensor"
Im reading this thread BC I just installed the ac 60g plugs and it acts different. I am running WVO so I may need longer gp time. So I may have to do the push switch.

 

[Cucvnut]

I installed 60g's and converted them to 12v and installed a new ip all at once. if your havinf hard start problems when it's warm its the ip not the gp's

 

[Milbikes]

If you need glow plugs to help start a warm engine, something else is wrong. My M1008 would start when it was 25 degrees with only two working glow plugs (it would take a littlle extra cranking, but not much). After warming for a few minutes, the truck would start instantly.

Sounds like you need to determine the actual cause of the hard starting when warmed up...it isn't normal for them to be that way.

Making a modification to the truck's systems, to "get around" a problem will only make the system worse....and harder to diagnose later.