AcuTemp Refrigerator

WWRD99

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Anyone hook a solar panel to one of these yet? I've read this entire thread and don't see that yet. I haven't found another thread about these on here so I thought I'd ask here...can start new if need be. I see it can use a 28 volt 10 amp max setup...with tech as fast as it's moved since the one I have was built I am not sure if a controller is needed or not...I don't think so but I was thinking if there is one in it already would it be efficient?...can I replace it with a new style one or am I on new ground here or overthinking this? New panels are not expensive and a single one would produce enough to keep the system running as long as the suns out. Renogy makes a nice controller and will see 12 or 24 volt panels automatically and charge lithium batteries,,,which I'd like to use...have basic sealed lead acid now...it's bluetooth and can map how the power is being used...has a temp sensor for the batteries too. I'll leave this here and see what you all think.
 

WWRD99

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Yes. Running fridge from 2 200w solar panels and 3 100W batteries when I do not have grid power.

Sorry, running through EPEVER controller
That makes sense to use an outside setup, probably way easier to setup without trying to change the system inside. You know if you can hook up a solar panel to it without a controller? I think it would hook up like a 12 volt charger to the internal batteries...I would hate to smoke it....says it can take a 120 watt 10 amp maxx input?
 

Third From Texas

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I converted mine into a beer cooler:
  • Replaced the latches with ss hinges across the back
  • Installed two rubber tie downs for the front
  • Added a set of gas struts to hold the lid up
  • Trimmed down three of the baskets to use as supports
  • Cut a piece of clear fridge shelf material from Home Depot and added holes for ventilation

To do:
  • Install a set of USB charging ports
  • Add a small strap to raise the internal lid with the external
  • Small internal LED light and switch
I still have the side latches and outboard front to secure the external lid if need be.


 
Last edited:

WWRD99

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York Pa
I converted mine into a beer cooler:
  • Replaced the latches with ss hinges across the back
  • Installed two rubber tie downs for the front
  • Added a set of gas struts to hold the lid up
  • Trimmed down three of the baskets to use as supports
  • Cut a piece of clear fridge shelf material from Home Depot and added holes for ventilation

To do:
  • Install a set of USB charging ports
  • Add a small strap to raise the internal lid with the external
I still have the side latches and outboard front to secure the external lid if need be.


Wow that's some good stuff!! You know what struts you used? I can find the other stuff pretty easy...like the bottom idea too. I just put new batteries in it the other day...runs great!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Third From Texas

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Wow that's some good stuff!! You know what struts you used? I can find the other stuff pretty easy...like the bottom idea too. I just put new batteries in it the other day...runs great!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I tried 10# and 22# struts and the later was perfect. It should have enough to lift both lids once I connect them with a strap or something.

Struts:

Rubber catches

Hinges

Everything was bolted with ss #8's and #10's and locknuts except the rubber catches (no easy way to be behind there to install nut so I riveted them.
 
Last edited:

WWRD99

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York Pa
I tried 10# and 22# struts and the later was perfect. It should have enough to lift both lids once I connect them with a strap or something.

Struts:

Rubber catches

Hinges

Everything was bolted with ss #8's and #10's and locknuts except the rubber catches (no easy way to be behind there to install nut so I riveted them.
Perfect!!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Third From Texas

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Anyone hook a solar panel to one of these yet? I've read this entire thread and don't see that yet. I haven't found another thread about these on here so I thought I'd ask here...can start new if need be. I see it can use a 28 volt 10 amp max setup...with tech as fast as it's moved since the one I have was built I am not sure if a controller is needed or not...I don't think so but I was thinking if there is one in it already would it be efficient?...can I replace it with a new style one or am I on new ground here or overthinking this? New panels are not expensive and a single one would produce enough to keep the system running as long as the suns out. Renogy makes a nice controller and will see 12 or 24 volt panels automatically and charge lithium batteries,,,which I'd like to use...have basic sealed lead acid now...it's bluetooth and can map how the power is being used...has a temp sensor for the batteries too. I'll leave this here and see what you all think.
This is next on my list of things to do with this. I have a little 50w panel and controller that keep the batteries in my M1082 trailer topped off. Since the cooler will be in the trailer when used, I want to add another little panel to keep it topped off. I like redundancy and having another gizmo with batteries makes me want to set up a charging system for it as well...
 

Third From Texas

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Charger:

Switch:

Light:
 

WWRD99

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Location
York Pa


Charger:

Switch:

Light:
I got the shocks and hold down in mine...still waiting on the solar panel!!
 

WWRD99

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Which controller and panel?
I didn't get a controller yet...still trying to figure out which to use...thinking of mounting it in the case with the wires through a grommet sealed up...I got a renogy 24 volt 6 amp that fits right on the top...I'll cut some aluminum angle to mount it with...I may do speed clamps so I can take it off and put it outside if I have the fridge in the shade...should be more than enough to charge and keep cool in some decent sun.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

SolarStorm

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3/27/22: Last week, I spoke directly with CSafe Global which manufactures the AcuTemp Hema-Cool/ AX56L and these units have a built in MPPT charge controller which means that you can plug a solar panel directly into the DC port (using the same DC cable which came with the unit) and the Hema-Cool will switch to external DC solar panel. You do not need an external charge controller. Max solar input is 28V and 10amps. Using Watts = Amps x Volts that’s about 280W that it can accept. Pretty Cool !

There is one for sale on Craigslist in Denver for $650 if you are lookin’
 

69birdman

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Summerfield, Fla.
3/27/22: Last week, I spoke directly with CSafe Global which manufactures the AcuTemp Hema-Cool/ AX56L and these units have a built in MPPT charge controller which means that you can plug a solar panel directly into the DC port (using the same DC cable which came with the unit) and the Hema-Cool will switch to external DC solar panel. You do not need an external charge controller. Max solar input is 28V and 10amps. Using Watts = Amps x Volts that’s about 280W that it can accept. Pretty Cool !

There is one for sale on Craigslist in Denver for $650 if you are lookin’
That's good info, had one for years now was curious of Solar hookup. I have 200w of solar panels.
Peace
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
434
641
93
Location
York Pa
3/27/22: Last week, I spoke directly with CSafe Global which manufactures the AcuTemp Hema-Cool/ AX56L and these units have a built in MPPT charge controller which means that you can plug a solar panel directly into the DC port (using the same DC cable which came with the unit) and the Hema-Cool will switch to external DC solar panel. You do not need an external charge controller. Max solar input is 28V and 10amps. Using Watts = Amps x Volts that’s about 280W that it can accept. Pretty Cool !

There is one for sale on Craigslist in Denver for $650 if you are lookin’
That's great information that I didn't know...mines been sitting for a bit but plan to use it a bunch this summer...I replaced the batteries with the ones it came with just to not throw off it's system so adding a panel to charge them is the next step for sure.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

Jayhawk#44

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Arizona
So, my brain says to myself, "I always get out bid"... Oops now I own a hemacool. With no power cords! Anyone have a lead on said cords? Did a bit of searching on eBay and Google without success. Otherwise looks to be in good condition.

Wife and middle son made the run to Vegas for the pickup, I couldn't get off work. They hit the casinos a bit and had a fun trip. Win win!

Once I verify it's actually operational, new batteries, camping fridge mods, and solar panels. Good to go!

Thanks in advance!!!

Matt

PXL_20220511_041247720.jpg
 

Third From Texas

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I'll double check tomorrow to be sure but:

The power cord connection is the same for the MRE heater. I made up my own using a set of alligator clips to connect to my truck battery, some 2 strand wire, and one of these. *it only uses two wires if I recall (I'll have to confirm the pin out).


Making up a 110v connect would be the same I assume.

I'll get back with ya...
 
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