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any mechanics specializing in CUCVs in OR or WA?

I have a m1009 CUCV thats beyond my mechanical skills, or patience. The previous owner did a half-assed 12v conversion thats left it with issues starting and charging that are making me pull my hair out. Once shes started, shes a champ, but if i stop the engine for any reason, shes dead again.

Both diesel shops ive taken it to have scratched their heads and left me with the problems.

Have any suggestions of shops that can help?
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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Location
London England
When you say it's dead, is that no start on cranking or no battery power to crank and start. Sounds like an electrical problem. So you need an auto electrician. (they shoudn't scratch their heads). You could pull a battery lead and if the engine dies the solonoid on the pump has failed deu to no charge. Could be flatning the battery by way of a faulty or incorrectly wired alternator. Just an idea to start and work around. good luck. keep us informed of progress and eventual solution.
 
Bunkerbuilder - I'd appreciate that!

dmetalmiki - right now its sitting in front of the second shop that i took it to. I'm a lil' annoyed with them, because I called them, explained the issue - they said to bring it over and they'd take a look at it, got a friend to hook up his nato slave cables, we jumped it, let it sit for 30 minutes just running (to build up charge on the batterys), then i drove over to the shop. Where they proceded to say "Oh, we only really do modern diesels. sorry." without looking at it (and im 99% sure the guy i talked to on the phone is the same guy i talked to at the shop). In the morning, my friend with the nato cables is going to give me a lift over, and jump me so i can bring it home. I'm spending the night seeking an auto-electrical expert to take it to.

*sigh*

Thanks for your help guys!
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
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45
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Location
Maine USA
If we could see a few detailed pictures under the hood of the electrical I think we could give you an initial idea of what wires may be wrong or what to look at. I would return it to the original system no matter what.
 
So, went to jump-start it this morning, and managed to kill the starter (it just grinds now. woo). so, i got it towed back to my place. fun fun fun

about to start making phone calls.

M38inMaine: i really want to restore it to the original electrical system. i really really really want it to run. I just KNOW i'm in over my head at this point. ugh!

20150318_094227.jpg20150318_094237.jpg20150318_094247.jpg20150318_094259.jpg20150318_094312.jpg20150318_094334.jpg20150318_094350.jpg
 

red

Active member
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Eagle Mountain/Utah
Going off the pics your batteries are setup in series (24 volt), but you said he started a 12v conversion? Is the alternator still a 24 volt or is it a 12 volt?
 

red

Active member
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Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Also when cranking the starter, does it turn at normal speed (with batts charged) or really, really slowly like it's only turning over at half speed?
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
2,090
45
48
Location
Maine USA
From what I can see it looks like the batteries are still hooked up to provide 24v but he has only one alternator supplying 12v. The box attached to the fender may be some type of battery isolator. I can see the glow plug resistor is also missing which is not a big deal. I would start by getting an isolated ground alternator to replace the missing one and also confirm the driver side is also a isolated ground alternator.. Since you are not all that familiar with electrical it may be in your best interest to get 2 new isolated ground alternators to be safe. Another thing to do while waiting is to fully charge the batteries and have them load tested. Once you have the alternators installed, I can walk you through the wiring to make sure it's correct before you hook up the batteries. You will need to be able to operate a simple multi meter as well to confirm voltages. Until all that is done I would not worry about the starter yet. Hopefully this is a spare vehicle for you and you can take your time to get it sorted out.
 

red

Active member
1,988
22
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Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
3 options,
1. Dual alternators as m38inmaine stated.

2. New 24 volt alternator.

3. Finish the 12 volt conversion.

With the single 12 volt alternator you have it will not charge your batteries.
 
The M1009 cucv had 2 isolated ground 12 v alternators not one 24v alternator the only exception to this may be the M1010 ambulance but Im not sure as I dont have a M1010. I would advise the roscommon 24 to 12v conversion to solve the issues he has with the M1009.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...s-nlGuSgLT8Jb900w&sig2=bTCyg_XNyOxhAmeOUvRZ-w


3 options,
1. Dual alternators as m38inmaine stated.

2. New 24 volt alternator.

3. Finish the 12 volt conversion.

With the single 12 volt alternator you have it will not charge your batteries.
 

Steve Preston

New member
7
0
0
Location
Portland/ Oregon
I have a towing company and repair shop in Portland near the Rose Garden, and we have worked on a few CUCV's recently. I have my CUCV Blazer down at the shop right now, and it would be a good vehicle to compare yours to and see what is original and what has been replaced. I think we could get it fixed for you, assuming we can find the parts to fix it, if you are still looking.
www.sergeantstowing.com
 
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