Common 6CTA8.3 Oil Leaks?

Mos68x

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Are there common points where this engine leaks? I've got a Class 3 leak but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I thought it was the power steering pump at first but it's reservoir is still full. Only other thought I had was that it could be some sorta seal in the accessory drive somewhere. I tried pressure washing it off and then checking it when I got home (70m) but it was already covered just as bad by then, like I hadn't even washed it. It seems to coming from the drivers side since there is far less oil on the pass side. I will also take some time on the next trip into Prescott or Kingman to stop at the wash point again. This time though I'll drive only a couple miles and check it again, but that won't be until after the 1st, just thought I'd try to find some more ideas on where to look before then.
 

74M35A2

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Front crank seal, front timing cover, and front timing case to block. Those are the most prevelant areas, and sounds like one or several could be yours also. Because of the direction the crank spins, it could be throwing it to the driver side if it is a seal leak.
 

Mos68x

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Would it also appear to come from the mounting areas of power steering and air compressor? I would assume yes but thought I'd ask anyways. I'll look for those parts on google and try to find them, could be in the TMs but I don't feel like looking.
 

Mos68x

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Are all three of those shown on 0021-2 the 24P-1 TM? Found a crank seal for it on google, but not the others. There is a kit that includes a bunch of stuff, P/N 38005580. I'm guessing it's a seal kit or rebuild kit for the engine, but nothing useful showed on google either. I would guess that it's probably a lot more expensive than just getting those seals only.
 

Ford Mechanic

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Edenton, NC
There is a gasket between the compressor and timing cover also. I've replaced several in non military applications.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Scrounger

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I had a leak like what you described on the 923A2. I thought it was the front seal on the cover and found out it was the front cover gasket. I found it easier to remove the hood and radiator to access the front cover. The radiator went in for service while it was out. The harmonic balancer will require a puller. If you have a leaking cover gasket you may as well replace the front seal. The seal kit comes with a sleeve for the crankshaft and is driven on. Just remember to reinstall the tachometer shaft on the gear before you reinstall the front cover. Ask me how I know.
2.jpg
 

WillWagner

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Common leaks are the front cover....there is a new style that you should put on, don't have to, but they are prone to cracking at the radius where the mount flange bends to the actual cover, mostly around the bolt holes. Also, the gear housing will break if the rear bottom compressor support fails, the most common failure for the support is the cross blots that bolt the support to the block break and or fall out. When you go together, use 10.9 bolts and red loctite.

The cover is referred to as the "sunrise" cover.

Also, no puller needed for the damper, it comes off with the removal of the bolts. Might be stuck from rust, but no special tools necessary

And, the new cover does not use a gasket, if you use one it will leak again in short order. Use the grey form a gasket, a thin bead to just fill the groove in the cover, again, this is for the NEW style cover pictured, if you reuse the old cover, a gasket is needed.

And, the picture is for reference to the new style cover. The cover in the pic is for an ISC.

AND, install the seal in the cover while it is off, the cover tends to flex and bounce when it is on engine when installing the seal. The seal will center the cover when you install the cover, DON'T touch the seal surface, it is teflon and the oil in your skin or what is on you from the repair will cause the seal to leak.
 

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WillWagner

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Wash it off, let it idle and just for a moment, stick your finger in the blow-by tube, the leak will show up ricky ticky. By a moment I mean 5 second bursts. Plug the hole, count 1-2-3-4-5, unplug the hole, repeat as necessary.
 
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