Correct oil to use for a White 'D' Turbo engine

[aboonski]

I am getting ready to change the oil in my 1968 M35A2C which has the White 'D' turbo engine. The previous owner told me to use only SAE 30W non-detergent oil in this truck. I bought a five gallon bucket of 30W SAE oil over at our local Tractor Supply but want to get some input from the experiences of other M35 owners prior to dumping this oil into my truck. Thanks for any suggestions or recommendations at this point!

Alan R. Broadbent - abroadbent@bellsouth.net

 

[Scrounger]

30W will work just fine; I use Shell Rotella 15W-40. I get it from Sam’s Club in the 55gal drums. All of my trucks have 15W-40 stenciled under the hood.

 

[aboonski]

Thanks for the quick reply! I want to convert to the Shell Rotella next time I change the oil. Our local Sam's Club has it in the 55 gallon drums as well as by the case. Since I have not changed the oil in this truck, I had a question about the two drain plugs, one in the front and one in the rear of the oil pan. I imagine I must drain both portions of the pan but was wondering the reason for the rear plug? Another diesel truck owner told me about an additive for the oil to prevent damage to the crank during cold starts. Any truth to this and what would I ask for at the parts place? Thanks Corporal!

 

[houdel]

Alan - I would NOT run non detergent oil in your engine. The LO (Lubrication Order) specifies various weights of single viscosity engine oil depending on ambient temperature; however I also run Rotella 15W-40 year round and I suspect the vast majority of Deuce owners do the same, either Rotella or an equivalent brand of HD diesel specific oil.

Regarding the two drain plugs, I suspect the "hump" in the oil pan to clear the front axle pumpkin prevented the designers from obtaining adequate slope in the rear section of the pan for the oil to drain properly in operation so they added the second sump. The Deuce oil pump has two sections, one is a scavenge pump to move oil from the rear sump to the front sump, and the main section supplies oil to the engine from the front sump. The scavenge pump does not completely empty the rear sump so you are correct in your assumption you have remove both drain plugs to completely drain the oil.

The "dry start" design of the engine is a hot topic amongst many Deuce owners. Check out the threads on "Spin On Oil Filters" and "Engine Prelubricators" both in this forum and the "Deuce Modification and Hot Rodding" forum for more insight. I don't know of a specific additive to reduce engine wear on a cold start, but when I change my oil I use 20 quarts of Rotella 15W-40 oil and two quarts of Royal Purple 15W-40 synthetic oil to address the wear issue.

 

[aboonski]

Lee!

Thank you so much for the very useful information! I plan to convert to Rotella next time I change the oil. I too am interested in the spin-on filter system and may purchase the parts necessary to convert my truck to that as soon as they become available. I like the part where the oil pressure is up and running almost as soon as the motor starts! I guess there is a reason for the oil to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is shut down. I live in Florida so it does get rather hot in the summertime. I have heard that some Florida Deuce owners run heavier weight oil in their trucks to increase oil pressure - for now, I'll use up the SAE 30 that I already have here at the house. Thanks again for the information! Al Broadbent

 

[jimk]

The non-detergent SAE30 oil typically available have API service rating is only SA or SB. Heavy duty detergent SAE30 is typically SM. It is important to note that the 'S' is spark ignition. The oil you choose should rate at least CC/CD, the C being for a compression ignition(diesel). The manufacturer/army may have spec'ed SAE30 as the multigrade technology was still new in the late 60's and there were some problems then, one example - polymerizers that broke down and formed sludge. The oil today is much better, SAE30 or multigrade. I use 15W-40. It offers more consistent viscosity and a wider temperature range. It gets cold enough here where SAE 30 may not pump in the winter. Some hassel it would be, changing 22qts before starting, if that need arises dutring it's mid winter storage. Mine calls for SAE30 though somewhere along the way the army stenciled '15W-40 only' on inside of the hood (M35A2). BTW the W, in say 10W-xx, stands for 'winter' and means it will pump at low temp. The Rotella T 15W-40 is a good choice. It's API rating is SL/CI-4plus. JimK

 

[acetomatoco]

Is OK to use HD 30 summer Diesel rated and HD 10 winter Diesel rated.. I would not use a non detergent 30 or 10 non rated oil in any Diesel... The 15-40 Diesel rated oil is good for most climates... Most M/F trucks have "use 15-40 oil only" stencilled under the hood... The basic SAE 30 oil from Tractor Supply is for the 8N tractors and 1938 Chevies...

 

[jimk]

The LDS troobleshooting manual (avail in SS resources area) states: ambient temp- SAE 30(MIL-L-2104)use for +20*F to +115*F, SAE 10(MIL-L-2104) for -10*F to +50*F, and Arctic (MIL-O-12095) for -65*F to +20*F. Problem is what to use when there is overlap, say, the day starts out at 10*F then warms to 50*F.Or those rare 60*F winter days(NY). And how good is any oil at the very edge of its allowed range??

15W-40 has a -33*F pour point (Rotella T).JimK

 

[aboonski]

Tractor Supply SAE 30 Standard Non Detergent Oil

I want to thank all of you who responded to my inquiry about the proper oil to use in my truck. I inquired about the SAE 30 Standard Non Detergent oil at the 800 number listed on the 5-gallon oil container and spoke with a Tractor Supply (TS) rep who purchases the oil for all the TS stores nationwide. After I got through talking with him I felt confident about using this oil in my truck; that's before I read the most recent threads that some of you wrote regarding the technical specifications for the currently used motor oil. Tomorrow I will drain the oil again and replace it with the Shell Rotella oil before any damage is done to the motor! I will probably look into burning the TS oil as fuel a little at a time since my motor is a multifuel - hopefully it hasn't been converted to run only on diesel! I found a thread about the fuel injector pump that has been converted or "by-passed" so I will compare those pictures with my setup before mixing any of the oil in with the diesel. The oil I have in the truck right now is API SA rated and that is not good according to one or more of you! I'll be at Sam's Club first thing in the morning for the Rotella oil! Thanks again for all your help! Al Broadbent

 

[clinto]

RE: Tractor Supply SAE 30 Standard Non Detergent Oil

My truck has 15W/40 stenciled as well and has been fed a steady stream of Rotella. Everyone I know with a multi has Rotella in it.

 

[jimk]

RE: Tractor Supply SAE 30 Standard Non Detergent Oil

Well it is the best crankcase oil to burn.Being new and detergent (and additive) free usually means less ash (an abrasive). I won't burn it but many do. I worry about carbon deposits(valves + turbine). You could use it in a less critical engine, or mix a few qts w/new oil. The additives in modern old are far better than anything offered in 68', and the result may still be better. How much? Remember good oil is cheaper than bad bearings. JimK

p.s (Clinto) I using NAPA 15W40 ($20 for leaking pail)

 

[JasonS]

I don't understand where folks got the idea that non-detergent is appropriate for any modern engine (1950+). The Chevy, GMC, and REO owners manuals from the fifies all state that detergent oil is recommended.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

I still have the government oil in mine. I think it is definitly time to change it! Bad Adam! *whack* ouch...

 

[houdel]

Re: Tractor Supply SAE 30 Standard Non Detergent Oil

I will probably look into burning the TS oil as fuel a little at a time since my motor is a multifuel - hopefully it hasn't been converted to run only on diesel! Al Broadbent

Go ahead and burn the TS oil whether your FDC is bypassed or not. All the FDC does is adjust fuel flow to maintain the engine's power level by compensating for the energy content of various fuels. If your FDC has been bypassed you will get a little more power out of the engine, which you can manually compensate for with your right foot.

Many users regularly run waste engine oil in their Deuces, mixing it at 25%-50% with diesel, depending on outside temperatures. See the "Alternative Fuels" forum for more info.

Al - BTW, did you go to GMI? Your name has a familiar ring, although I suppose there are more than one Al Broadbents in the world!

 

[aboonski]

The Rotella 15-40 is in the truck

Lee, thanks for the info regarding burning the SAE 30 oil as fuel. I should have known better than to put it in the crankcase to start off with considering how thin it was; it was also clear with no trace of yellow or any other color for that matter. At first I thought it was dot 5 brake fluid! Anyway, running it for the short amount of time that I did apparently cleaned out the other dirty oil residue inside of the motor. When I drained the TS oil out, it was quite dark. I'll just filter it prior to putting the stuff in with the diesel.
No, I never went to GMI. I have been in Florida pretty much all of my life including most of my time in the Air Force. In 1962 we relocated from Dewey Beach Delaware to Melbourne because we lost everything in a big storm that hit the east coast in March of '62. Back then I can remember the National Guard coming down the beach in their Deuce and a half trucks and from then on I always wanted one (a Deuce).
Also, thanks to all of the others who contributed information that helped me get through the ordeal of changing my oil for the first time! Al Broadbent

 

[cranetruck]

Just to be different I'm using the 30W specified in the TM. It doesn't get that cold here, so with well maintained batteries it still cranks fast and starts easily in the Winter.
Texaco Ursa Super Plus heavy duty 30 W.

 

[OD_Coyote]

My M35A2 has 15W-40 stenciled on the inside of the hood and I run Delo 15W-40 in all my diesel powered equipment.