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Crankcase Breather Tube Smoke/Oil

droprat

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
194
9
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Well!!!

Got word back yesterday from diesel mechanic shop on why there was oil and smoke coming from crankcase breather tube and coolant in the oil!!???

Looks like the cylinder liners/sleeves are bad. Mechanic stated that it may have been caused by someone running straight water through the cooling system, prior to me purchasing it from GL Auction. He also said if one liner/sleeve goes bad its best to replace all of them.

Anyways. Anyone know the cost for Liner/Sleeve kits for all 6 cylinders and labor costs???

Maybe cheaper to go with a used engine???

Undecided at this point on repairing or selling as is???!!!
:cry:
 

bearboley

New member
265
6
0
Location
Circleville Ohio
I dont think it cost all that much for a cummins kit. Right at 1000 bucks for complete rebuild kit I think.Look around the net there should be plenty around. I have seen them rebuilt in a day before. Maybe 8hrs at 80 a hour, 1800 or 2000 I m just guessing I could be way off on the dollars
 

wsucougarx

Well-known member
6,951
64
48
Location
Washington State
Was this truck in this condition when you won it at GL? Or did this condition start up after you got it home?
Brings me to another question. Should we be putting the coolant conditioner (DCA) in our coolant? I'm now thinking we should.
 

droprat

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
194
9
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Truck began to emit smoke, vapor and oil from the crankcase breather tube as soon as it was driven from where it was parked at the auction site. As soon as this was seen, a friend was called to tow the truck home.

Mechanic stated that it would be an IN Frame Rebuild which would run $8k. Stated that the liners were damaged as well as other parts. This damage was caused by poor cooling maintainence (Electrolysis). HE ALSO SAID TO USE DCA
 

F18hornetM

Active member
1,135
10
38
Location
Ocean City, Md
I dont know much about GL. Only bought one vehicle from them. I bet you bought it "as is" though. I really doubt there is any warranty with this stuff. Have never seen an auction anywhere with a warranty. Good luck though and hope you get it fixed.
 

wsucougarx

Well-known member
6,951
64
48
Location
Washington State
Better go back and read the terms and conditions you agreed to when made the first bid. Go made sure they had their backside covered over any possible issue.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,437
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
wsucougarx;1112946 Should we be putting the coolant conditioner (DCA) in our coolant? I'm now thinking we should.[/QUOTE said:
I do believe in getting the test strips and testing any truck as soon as we get them.
 

droprat

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
194
9
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Anyone know where to get the O-Ring Brass Retainers that go @ the ends of the Oil Cooling Element?

Are the Oil Cooler O-Ring Brass Retainers off an M-809 series the same as an M-939 series?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I have the brass rings at home. I am working out of town right now. I will PM you when I get back and locate them(should be this weekend).
 
377
3
18
Location
Owatonna, MN
Make sure you clock your oil cooler element correctly as there is very faint alignment marks. I chased down a frustrating low oil pressure problem caused by a incorrectly positioned oil cooler a few years ago.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,385
2,389
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
If your guy said the liners were putting water in the oil, why'd you take the o/c apart? That usually is the cause for oil in the coolant.

Retainer p/n is 110827
O-ring p/n 148293

These are old numbers but they can be superceded. Also, your guy is incorrect. I think he just wants to make some money. Pinpoint which liner is leaking and do that hole. Use DCA ant the pitting will stop where it is and get no worse unless you don't maintain the cooling system chemicals.

Too bad you aren't close, I'd do it for you. It pizzez me off to see people try and squeeze money out of people by over repairing things or taking advantage of them 'cause they don't know about the engine.
 
Last edited:
377
3
18
Location
Owatonna, MN
By the way Will Wagner rules. He helped us figure out our Nhc 250 problem and knows these motors quite well. Agreed on the quotes you received on the repairs being high and also more involved then needed. A great time for a big cam Jake brake repower....
 

G-Force

Member
622
8
18
Location
allendale nj
Usually when the oil cooler goes bad it will puke antifreeze/oil out the overflow due to the oil pressure being greater than the cooling system pressure. Nothing like seeing "melted ice cream" pouring out the overflow.....and yes, I'd only do one hole.....or get the parts and do it yourself. Its really not that hard.
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,576
210
63
Location
Dickson,TN
First thing I'd do is pull the pan, pressurize the cooling system, and find out where the water is coming from. After you determine that you can figure out what you need to replace. Replacing a piston and sleeve in a NHC 250 is very easy if you have any mechanical skills at all. You will need a big torque wrench (for the head bolts and and rod bolts) and a in/lb torque wrench (to set the injectors).
 

Ord22

Member
571
3
18
Location
Stockbridge, Ga
For one thing, Whenever you buy one of these trucks, you should check take a coolant strip tester and check the coolant. If bad, change your coolant and filter. Change your oil/filters and fuel filters. Reason i'm saying all of this, the military didn't make a good habit in changing coolant, oil. As long as there is no leaks, the fluids didn't get changed on a regular basis. Adding DCA's is just a temporary fix. It sounds to me that the mechanic didn't drop the pan, pressurize the coolant system and look up in the engine to see if there is any leakage coming from the liners. Rotate engine as necessary. If one liner is leaking, thats 'cause by poor coolant maintenance. In this case, the liners are pitted. Meaning, the water in the coolant is eating away the metal of the liner. I've seen them so bad that it will make holes thru the liner. If one liner is leaking, the others are bad or just as bad. Need to change them all. You should pressurize the oil cooler to make sure it leaking. If the cooler is good, pressurize the coolant system and look up in the engine to any leaks. Good luck. Please keep us in the loop, thanks.
 
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